Replace PEX fitting with Shark Bite Push Connector?
 

I have 1989 Manufactured home and am replacing all fixtures and floor in guest bath. I noticed the gray poly piping and fixtures and decided to changeout to pex 1/2 inch (connections are under the subfloor above the belly of the MHome in the crawl so they are not easily visible once I put in new subfloor).

I had to replace two poly t fittings with the new pex copper ones and all 3 connections on each fitting passed the go and no-go test.

On each of them, I had a 4 foot leg (one for toilet) (one for sink) in which I turned the pipe a little and I noticed the pex crimp ring move on the fixture a little. I find these pex pipes are somewhat hard to work on without moving at the fitting that has been crimped (maybe I am doing backwards).

At any rate, concerned I should tear out the t' fittings and redo. I did turn on water and did NOT see any leaking. I just get very paranoid about these things, especially after reading this forum.

Questions - should i redo the t, and if so, could I consider the newer brass shark bite push in type connectors as these seem reliable and easier to work with? Many people swear by these now.

How do I finish off the toilet connector, is there a special fitting I must use to provide firmness prior to installing the shutoff valve?

thanks

When you refer to the ring moving do you mean that the pex itself rotated on the fitting? If the ring is placed correctly and crimped properly I would not worry. If the crimp ring is loose enough to move on the pex then you've got a problem. Sharkbites are handy, however most plumbers will not reccommend using them behind walls because they are considered untested by time. For fixture connections use a drop ear fitting, which is a right angle fitting that goes from pex to female pipe thread. This is mounted to a block between the studs.

followup
 

The pipe rotated a little around the fixture. The crimp ring rotated a little as well. Seems really tight though and no leaks. Just wondering if there was a lot of leverage with the long pipe I rotated that normally would not occur.

Also check with your supply house. You should be able to purchase a long
radius copper pex 90 capped at on end. It comes with a nailing flange.
After walls are finished, just cut the capped end and either use a soldered stop or a compression stop.