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Replace galvanized water pipe

2K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  Oso954 
#1 ·
I'm debating replacing my galvanized water pipe. I'd like to start with the main supply line in my basement. I have a 3/4 " pipe that comes off the meter that is inside my house. Right now I have what looks like a home made water hammer arrester right after the meter too. Where could I read about the code for main supply line from the meter.
 

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#2 ·
Should have been replaced years ago.
Galvinized will leak and close up on the inside and reduce flow 100% of the time.
Replace it with Pex, copper, or CPVC.
You need 3/4 mains and 1/2" supplys.
 
#7 ·
I'm debating replacing my galvanized water pipe. I'd like to start with the main supply line in my basement. I have a 3/4 " pipe that comes off the meter that is inside my house. Right now I have what looks like a home made water hammer arrestor right after the meter too. Where could I read about the code for main supply line from the meter.
Water hammer arrestors are most effective when placed as close as possible to the valve they are serving- such as an ice maker, clothes washer, toilet, and irrigation valves. These are quick closing valves.
The line you see may be a capped line from earlier use. I would think it serves no purpose.
There are no specific code that addresses that section of pipe except general water piping code.
 
#8 ·
Bryanp22, I'm actually doing this right now. I have a galvanized and copper system that I am tearing out and replacing with a new Pex and manifold system. While I'm at it, I'm replacing the 1991 (yea I know) water heater and adding an expansion tank. It will be a whole new system and well worth it. I was quoted a bid for around $5k to re-plumb the entire house. With everything I just mentioned I should be able to do it for around $1200 and the water heater ate up $500 of that total. Good luck and look into manifolds if you have not already.
 
#9 ·
If you don't have a water hammer issue right now, I wouldn't worry about it.

In my experience it only happens on lines where the valve closes quickly. I did have a slight problem with one of my lines...I solved it by getting all the related pipes properly secured....

What was basically happening....someone would flush the toilet which is being fed off the longest section of the main 3/4" feed...so here you have about 33' of copper pipe with water flowing at a good clip and then all of a sudden the flow stops....if you calculate the volume of water....that means you have a little over 6 lbs trying to stop all of a sudden.

If pipes are loose, you get what some call water hammer....it sounds like someone is hammering on your pipes...

The valves on most newer toilets are designed to reduce hammer. I've heard that in some cases you can crank down the shutoff valve coming out to the wall to slow the flow a little and reduce hammer. Downside...if it's a cheap or old valve, it might leak.
 
#10 ·
If pipes are loose, you get what some call water hammer.
I agree that some call it water hammer, but it is not. That is just loose or noisy pipes. Water hammer is pressure spikes within the piping. It can make noise even if the pipes are tightly fastened.

Real cases of water hammer that are not corrected can damage your piping system, or anything connected to it.
 
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