Removing an old tub drain

DIYMILF

Hi! I am getting frustrated.....So here's my situation: I am selling my condo and my buyer is requesting that I replace or repair the tub stopper in the master bathroom. Here's a similar picture of what my tub drain looks like:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/replace-tu…

It is one of those drains where the tub stopper screws into the crossarms. The problem is that the crossarms are broken. Therefore, I need to replace the drain.

A contractor guy is telling me that because my tub is old (my building was built 1991 and I assume it's the original drain) and because the drain is old, that he needs to cut a hole in the wall behind the tub (my walk-in closet) in order to access the drain from behind/below....that it isn't the best idea to try to remove it from the outside/top, because the tub can chip, etc.

But I found this tool online that is supposed to be for these types of jobs where the crossarms are broken:

http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site…

Wouldn't this work??? Even though my cross arms are broken? There are still some little pieces left to it, but not much. I would imagine we could use this, and apply the hair dryer or some chemical that would loosen up the lip. Something online said to try dissolving with C.L.R. the mineral deposits that are holding the drain.

So my question is this: CAN hubby and I do this ourselves with this special tool? Do we NEED a plumber or contractor to cut an access panel in our walk-in closet just to get this drain out? And do we run the risk of DAMANGING our tub by trying to remove it ourselves? I called a plumber and he said it couldn't be removed with the tool, that it would have to be cut out. I don't feel comfortable cutting ourselves, but I also don't feel comfortable having some plumber charge $225 for him to try to cut it out.

Any advice you can offer would be much appreciated!!!!

DIYMILF

Can I just add that I think it's very picky and petty to request for the drain to be fixed....why doesn't a little plastic stopper work for her?? Worked for me!!

plumber666

What I'd do is call a plumber and get an estimate to fix it. He'll be able to tell you if the wall have to be opened up or not. If it looks like a $500 repair, knock $500 off the price of the condo. Sometimes, and I speak from experience, an estimate can go sideways really fast on old broken plumbing parts. If the crosshairs have rotted out, what's going to break next when I put a wrench on it?
If you're that close to closing the deal, throw money at it and try to let it become the new owners problem.

the_man

I like plumber666's idea. You might end up wasting a bunch of time, and still have to call someone in to get it done for ya. If you decide to tackle this I prefer this tool http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Internal...h/EN/index.htm for the job. You won't have to cut a hole in the wall if you're only replacing the exposed trim pieces. If you need to replace the tubing in the wall then get your saw

DIYMILF

Plumber666 -- The unfortunate part is that this repair is something that came up during the Buyer's home inspection. So we already agreed on purchase price and what-not. So I don't think I can just add repair costs on top of fees. I think you're right in that I'm just going to have to use a plumber to make sure this deal closes on time. I don't want to cause additional problems that wind up being more costly.

The bright side is that the home WE have found and are buying....well.....has mold on the roof sheathing and needs to have the roof replaced in order to replace it.....and the sellers also are going to do radon mitigation. I guess my $500 out of pocket for repairs are nothing compared to my Sellers' $6000 or so.

Thanks, guys!!

plumber666

So there ya go, sometimes there things just work out!

DIYMILF

Plumber666-- Here's an update for you!! OMG.......So I ordered that tool, the Golden Extractor, and it came in the mail today 30 MINUTES BEFORE THE PLUMBER came..... Get this: Hubby was home at the time and gave me the report that the plumber used OUR TOOL that just came in the mail to remove the drain, and then to top it off, offered to BUY the tool from us, for the same price I paid online for it! How freakin' crazy is this story?? LOL I guess I probably should have tried to tool ourselves first, but hey, like you said, at least I have peace of mind now. He charged us $140, but minus the $50 for the tool. So hubby paid $90 today....and I still have $50 sitting on my credit card for the tool that I had ordered.

SIGH......

But at least it's cheaper than the contractor who told me yesterday that it would cost $900 (!!!!) to cut a HOLE in my wall to change the drain. Are you kiddin' me??

LOL

Thanks, guys!

plumber666

That's a great story!

Jim F

900 sounds excessive for the repair described. Those inside pipe wrenches are great. I wish I'd known about them years ago I could have used one to replace a stubborn shower drain where the flange nut was seized on. I could not find a tool that would turn the shower drain from above while I held the flange nut from below.

brosea

I have also used that Ridgid Internal Wrench and think that is your best option. If you have any access from below try to wedge something in there to prevent breaking the rest of the drain. Pour some boiling water around the drain or use a hair dryer to soften up the putty. If plumbers putty was used it might come free, if they used silicone it may be a little harder....


P.S. love the usermane