DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Plumbing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/)
-   -   Removing master half bath to extend main bath (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/removing-master-half-bath-extend-main-bath-114649/)

ryanb4614 08-19-2011 10:35 PM

Removing master half bath to extend main bath
 
3 Attachment(s)
Hello! Everyone has been a great help on this forum. Finally got into the house today to take a look around and took some pictures for everyone. The project I would like to start on is the bathroom. Currently the master closet was converted to a 1/2 bathroom. It is literally a closet with a toilet and sink in it. It is against the main bathroom. I have taken a few pictures for clarification.

I would like to remove the wall dividing the master bathroom and the main bathroom, this will help widen the area so I can move the sink in the main bathroom. The master bedroom had an addition put on as a nursery a few years ago, so I will be making this a walkin closet.

My questions are:
-As seen in the picture how hard will it be to remove the toilet in the .5 bathroom, discount/cap the drain pipe and water line? (instructions please)
-Remove the plumbing to the sink in the main bathroom (instructions please)
-I will then be using the drain and water supply to the .5 sink that is already existing but will just need to be moved 2 feet closer to the wall (where the door is that I will be sheetrocking over.)

I will also be removing the master bathroom door and sheet rocking over it.

ddawg16 08-20-2011 05:12 AM

You lucky ba$tard you....a cellar to work on your plumbing......I just spent the last 2 days crawling around on my back and belly rebuilding my sewer and water lines for my bathroom......

What you want to do is a piece of cake.....if you don't think you will ever put a toliet back in....remove all the pipe up to the Tee....and just cap it with a removeable cap....that will give you a clean out access point in the future. Your plumbing looks like iron so you will need to get some input from some of the other guys....I'm removing all the iron in my house and using ABS.

The copper plumbing? Time to learn how to sweat pipe....it's actually pretty easy. Don't go cheap and use butane....use the yellow cans of MAP gas...burns hotter...gets the job done quicker.

Over time you will build up the tools and parts to work on it. I have a tub with a collection of copper fittings along with the tools....do a search on sweating copper you will find lots of info.

A piece of advice....since your moving your water lines...and a wall....don't run them up through the floor for the new location...go up inside the wall....yes, this means cutting drywall....but the repair is easy compared to the total project and looks a whole lot better. I think it looks like crap when you see water lines coming up out of the floor like you sink does now....it yells "hack job".

Good luck....keep us posted with project pics. It's projects like yours that other people depend on as examples when they want to do something similar.

ryanb4614 08-20-2011 05:51 AM

Can't go to the T because the have the tub and other sink drains running into this line.

ryanb4614 08-20-2011 07:10 AM

is it okay to put a hole in the 2 2x8 that are together? this would need to be done to run a sink drain pipe to where i want it, hole will be about 3 inches

oh'mike 08-20-2011 07:19 AM

Could you draw a sketch of the new floor plan?

If it were my job---I'd remove all the old iron drains and replace them----That might be over kill,however.but those drains look to be 60 years old and are likely to be close to the end of the useful life.

If the old work stays---removing the old toilet bend could be done easily enough by prying out the old lead and okum with a drill and a screw driver--then crack the pipe near the flange using a 3 pound hammer and then wiggling out the old fitting.

Soldering copper is an easy skill to learn for most people---A torch with a hose makes the job much easier---Best for directing the heat where it is needed---and the flame stays the same--

torch on the bottle? Flame changes as you tip the bottle---to big to get into tight spots.

ryanb4614 08-20-2011 07:33 AM

1 Attachment(s)
sorry for the sketch did it in 2 minutes! help this helps

oh'mike 08-20-2011 07:45 AM

Thanks---I'll look and be back---Mike---

oh'mike 08-20-2011 07:54 AM

To avoid dropping the new sink drain through the doubled floor joist--consider this.

route the drain along the wall then a 90 into the wall at the foot of the tub---then go down and you will miss the doubled joists---don't forget that a vent will be needed for that drain.

There is a tool available to rent,for cutting iron pipe---called a 'chain cutter' or 'chain breaker'

I'd still remove as much of the old iron as you can afford---Now is the time for adding new.

ryanb4614 08-21-2011 07:43 PM

Plumbing is going to be easy. I am going to move 90% of the cast iron... Worked on the bathroom for two days, wall is down. 97% of the tile is down, it has the mortar and wire! Taking longer than I thought to take the walls down. Still have some wire and mortar to remove. Big pain! I decided to remove everything. Was going to save bath tub but figured if I am getting everything new mine as well get that new, plus tile is covering the tub now :/

Hammering away

TheEplumber 08-21-2011 07:59 PM

Pictures please :thumbup:

ryanb4614 08-24-2011 06:34 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is one picture from day 2 of demo... Now the tub is out and 90% of drywall just have one more edge to do to remove the wire finally!!! This was crazy. The ceiling was removed and insulation came flying down on me. Wasn't thinking. Now I have to work 10days straight and can't drive to the house :/

So following Friday I plan
-removing last piece of wire
-redo the electric in the bathroom
Start
-Drywall
-hopefully I can get the bathroom 80% to 100% done next time I am off I get 5 days off

From the shower area to the wall there was a 2x6 running from one wall to the other in the ceiling. but they had a 2x4 under it. I removed the 2x4 because there would have been a hang in the ceiling. now the 2x6 was pieced together from the 2x4... So I will have to also go out and get a longer 2x6 to put back up in the ceiling. May do a little hang in the tub will be in the ceiling. Not sure. The hang they had was real low.

oh'mike 08-24-2011 07:24 AM

Nice progress---Thanks for the pictures.

ddawg16 08-25-2011 01:30 AM

Rule #3 of home improvement projects......There will be dirt everywhere.

Side note....don't take shortcuts on things like headers....if in doubt, make it stronger....the few extra bucks for the right header is a lot cheaper than trying to fix it later. One suggestion I got from one contractor..."Don't be afraid to make that header longer...let is span a second stud....redueces the chances of cracks in the wall."

ryanb4614 08-27-2011 06:08 AM

When putting the tile around the bathtub... Should I put the drywall around the tub then have the cement board on top of the dry wall (just around the bathtub) and then tile on that? Reason I ask is because the bull nose tile needs to have something to curve around on the edges...

ryanb4614 08-27-2011 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 714586)
Rule #3 of home improvement projects......There will be dirt everywhere.

Side note....don't take shortcuts on things like headers....if in doubt, make it stronger....the few extra bucks for the right header is a lot cheaper than trying to fix it later. One suggestion I got from one contractor..."Don't be afraid to make that header longer...let is span a second stud....redueces the chances of cracks in the wall."

Header for where?


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:47 PM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved