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Old 05-27-2008, 02:10 PM   #1
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Removing A Dishwasher


The dishwasher in the house we bought never really worked right and we planned on getting rid of it anyway without replacement. I was looking under the sink to get an idea of the plumbing hook-up.
On the sink drain there is a threaded nipple conection the the drain hose for the dishwasher. The first question I have is if I remove the dishwasher drain hose can I just cap the threaded nipple on the sink so I don't have to attempt to replace the pipe?
The second part is that it looks like the dishwasher water is fed from a 1/4"(guessing the size) copper line that is attached to a shut-off valve tapped into the sinks water line. My refrigerator is nearby so I was thinking of utilizing this for the ice maker, I'd just need to get a longer piece of copper tubing. Sound feasible?
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:12 PM   #2
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I doubt what you are looking at on the drain is threaded, usually it is a barbed hose fitting for the drain from the DW. (But it if it is threaded a cap is fine) For the barbed hose fitting I use Red Green's universal fix all. (duct tape) There is no pressure on this connection and all you want is to keep water from splashing out. Or you can remove the DW tailpiece and install a straight one (easy to do).

You can use the DW supply for a icemaker but usually a DW is 3/8 inch copper and a icemaker is 1/4 inch. You will have to make up a transition.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:37 PM   #3
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Removing A Dishwasher


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You can use the DW supply for a icemaker
NO!

Dishwasher supply is hot. Icemaker should be fed from cold supply. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:08 PM   #4
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NO!

Dishwasher supply is hot. Icemaker should be fed from cold supply. Thanks in advance!

Yeah, I read up after my posting and realized this. At least I'll be able to just shut it off and disconnect it since the line for the dishwasher is tapped into the hot water line using a shut-off valve.

Now my dilema is for the ice maker hook-up. I'm a little reluctant to use a saddle clamp that pierces the cold water line.
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:28 PM   #5
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I agree with not using a saddle clamp. They clog easy and leak easier. They do make a double shut-off valve (two valves in one) that you MAY be able to replace the cold water shut-off valve with. If not, then you will need to install a tee and valve (don't install without one) for the icemaker.
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:43 PM   #6
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I agree with not using a saddle clamp. They clog easy and leak easier. They do make a double shut-off valve (two valves in one) that you MAY be able to replace the cold water shut-off valve with. If not, then you will need to install a tee and valve (don't install without one) for the icemaker.

Looks like this might be a job for my plumber. I'm not sure if I'm ready to tackle cutting into and soldering copper pipe.
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:43 PM   #7
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jte1130. These valves are available in compression types. You just cut out a section and install with a couple cresent wrenches. I have included a picture of one such valve and they come in different configurations such as straight (this one is an angle valve)

http://www.homefixitparts.com/plumbi...&dept=Plumbing
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Last edited by majakdragon; 05-28-2008 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:00 PM   #8
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I disagree using hot water for the icemaker is a problem. The water coming from the HW heater has had a lot of the sediment settled out and will give cleaner ice. The small amount of water an icemaker uses will be insignificant on the water heating costs. And finally hot water freezes faster than cold water (I think it is due too the fact the water is purer - this was proven on an episode of the" Mythbusters").
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:03 PM   #9
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I disagree using hot water for the icemaker is a problem. The water coming from the HW heater has had a lot of the sediment settled out and will give cleaner ice. The small amount of water an icemaker uses will be insignificant on the water heating costs. And finally hot water freezes faster than cold water (I think it is due too the fact the water is purer - this was proven on an episode of the" Mythbusters").
Would you really want hot water being pumped into YOUR freezer and thawing out the frozen tacos?
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:56 PM   #10
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I disagree using hot water for the icemaker is a problem. The water coming from the HW heater has had a lot of the sediment settled out and will give cleaner ice. The small amount of water an icemaker uses will be insignificant on the water heating costs. And finally hot water freezes faster than cold water (I think it is due too the fact the water is purer - this was proven on an episode of the" Mythbusters").

I guess I have no actual proof one way or the other, but it doesn't seem logical at all. I think i've seen that episode, and I believe you are mistaken..... I've heard people claim that cold water boils faster too, but that isn't the case. It changes temperature more rapidly than hot water, but it doesn't reach the boiling point any faster.

Maybe the episode is on youtube or something.

Anyway, I still disagree. Standard practice is to run a cold line to an icemaker box, otherwise you'd see plumbers everywhere doing it the opposite way.

To the original poster : Do you have 1/2" copper stubbed out under the sink, or are they brass nipples? If it is copper, does it have a threaded male adapter soldered on, or is the angle stop a compression style onto the copper itself?

Either way, this is a pretty simple DIY project.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:06 AM   #11
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Ok, I was looking at it last night. Maybe I need to post a pic. On the hot water side it looks like they stubbed it out. They added a stub off the side which ends in the shut-off valve for the dishwasher. I assume I can either remove this stub and restore the hot water valve to its original position or jut leave the vavle for the dishwasher turned off and leave all stubbing as is.
On the cold water side the valve is in its original position. Looking at how the hot water side is done I guess I can just mimic it on the cold water side. Or possibly even reuse the stub on the coldwater side. It looks like the stubs are threaded. Due to inexperience I'm a little unsure of the pipe type. Originally I thought it was copper but I thought copper gets soldered?
I'll try and get a pic posted.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:35 AM   #12
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I agree with not using a saddle clamp. They clog easy and leak easier. They do make a double shut-off valve (two valves in one) that you MAY be able to replace the cold water shut-off valve with. If not, then you will need to install a tee and valve (don't install without one) for the icemaker.
Hey majak, just found this on the link you sent me in a later post. Looks like this might be the easier route to take rather then stub it out. The only thing I wonder about is the handles look plastic.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:45 AM   #13
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You are correct, even the stem is. I only added the pic to give you an idea of what I was talking about. You can probably find better quality valves elsewhere or maybe a Plumbing Supply store. As stated, this is only one confiuration and you can find others.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:49 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by jte1130 View Post
Ok, I was looking at it last night. Maybe I need to post a pic. On the hot water side it looks like they stubbed it out. They added a stub off the side which ends in the shut-off valve for the dishwasher. I assume I can either remove this stub and restore the hot water valve to its original position or jut leave the vavle for the dishwasher turned off and leave all stubbing as is.
On the cold water side the valve is in its original position. Looking at how the hot water side is done I guess I can just mimic it on the cold water side. Or possibly even reuse the stub on the coldwater side. It looks like the stubs are threaded. Due to inexperience I'm a little unsure of the pipe type. Originally I thought it was copper but I thought copper gets soldered?
I'll try and get a pic posted.
Post a picture for sure. A lot of people like to use nipples instead of stubbing out copper. They mount a threaded adapter in the wall and stub out a brass nipple, and thread an IPS angle stop onto it.

If this is the case, you just need to turn off your water, relieve the pressure somewhere at the lowest fixture or hose bibb, put a towel under your cabinet, and maybe a small bucket in case of excess water. Unthread your angle stop, trying to keep the nipple coming out of the wall stationary. Replace with the appropriate angle stop, which I can't really determine without knowing what's under your sink.
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