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Old 02-07-2010, 06:38 PM   #1
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


I've gutted our bathroom with the intent to tile the floor, and shower surround. So far I've only replaced the tub, and everything lined up so far. Since it was gutted we figured we may as well replace the shower fixtures.

I'm unsure of the spacing needed to install the valve portion of the system. Here is the old plumbing:



I'm hoping to leave as much of this intact as I can. I understand I need to replace the valve with the one supplied with the new fixture. The fixture is a Moen.

I'm assuming I need to follow the instructions for "1C" (below). The directions specify I need to make a hole 4.5in, but there is no information on how far forward to space the valve.




1) How do I determine the distance needed to install this valve? The plan is to put 1/2 backerboard up, and the tile itself is about 1/4 ( subway tile ). I'm hoping to cut away the existing valve, and reattach the new one in it's place.

When I hold up the valve, and this black plastic spacer(?) against the stud, it sticks out 1 in:



Now what?

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Old 02-07-2010, 09:43 PM   #2
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


The area where your thumb is, is where your finished wall is going to be.Attatch the spacer to the new valve and then hold it in place so the area where your thumb is is about 3/4inch(1/2inch backer plus 1/4inch tile) from the stud face.The distance from the stud face to the valve inlets is how far back to adjust your plumbing.

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Old 02-07-2010, 09:49 PM   #3
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


So install it to where the black plastic piece will be about 3/4 inch from the stud face? How much room will have have to play with once it's installed? How perfect does this measurement need to be?
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:23 PM   #4
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Just do your best with a tape measure or combination square.It's not do or die critical, there is some fudge room.Depends on model but might be 3/8 to 1/2 inch but the closer you get it the better it will look.Good luck!!
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:42 AM   #5
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Just to clarify I didn't mean You could be 1/2 inch forward or 1/2 inch back.I meant 1/4 inch either way for a total of 1/2 inch.And don't calculate to use up the measurement intorance the manufacturer builds in,it can just happen.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:49 PM   #6
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Is there anyway to re use this old mixer valve? How could I find out what brand this is?

The Moen I purchased needs to have the pipes threaded into the valve itself. I'm trying to stay away from possibly having to do too much soldering since this will be closed off, and tiled. Could I just use sharkbite fittings that are threaded one on end?
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:51 PM   #7
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Is it possible to just redo all of this in CPVC? I've worked with that in the past.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:22 PM   #8
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


I've looked into keeping the valve, and just replacing the rest of the hardware.

From what I can come up with I believe this model may work with my valve:

http://www.faucetdirect.com/moen-t25...ection/p212097

Here are the instructions: http://www.faucetdirect.com/mediabas...ns/INS005D.pdf

The numbers appear to be #12289, or #13289. I need to take a photo, and enlarge it to really see.

Would this be a better idea than replacing everything?
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:15 PM   #9
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Shark bites would possibly work but depending on the width of the new valve and the length of the sharkbite, you might not have enough room between the studs.Have you thought about using PEX?Easy to work with and would be very forgiving on the depth inside the wall.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:25 AM   #10
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


I would reccomend replacing the valve if you have the wall open already if you think you can do it. It's not that difficult.

Hold your tape measure across the studs where the valve will be mounted so that if you're looking down at your tape measure, the numbers will be facing up. Then position your valve at the wall, and the outside edge of your tape measure should fall about 1/2 way in the middle of the plastic backing plate. This is how we always rough them in and have no issues with them.

Make sure you put a block behind it and secure it so it won't move when you turn it on and off.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:20 PM   #11
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb1 View Post
Shark bites would possibly work but depending on the width of the new valve and the length of the sharkbite, you might not have enough room between the studs.Have you thought about using PEX?Easy to work with and would be very forgiving on the depth inside the wall.
I don't know too much about pex, but I've heard good things. I'd rather not start with something like that right now because I'm trying to get the bathroom back together asap.

I bought a few sharkbites to take a look and they don't appear to be a problem.

My next thought is to keep the valve, and get a new kit. It's not ideal, but I don't trust my soldering skills since this will be closed in a wall. I've done soldering under the house, and that had held up fine, but this would always be in the back of my mind.

I found a kit through Moen that they said would work. I think I may go this route and if I need to replace it in the future I can tear out the drywall from behind, and replace it this way.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:21 PM   #12
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Remodeling bathroom, shower fixture questions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan View Post
I would reccomend replacing the valve if you have the wall open already if you think you can do it. It's not that difficult.

Hold your tape measure across the studs where the valve will be mounted so that if you're looking down at your tape measure, the numbers will be facing up. Then position your valve at the wall, and the outside edge of your tape measure should fall about 1/2 way in the middle of the plastic backing plate. This is how we always rough them in and have no issues with them.

Make sure you put a block behind it and secure it so it won't move when you turn it on and off.
Ideally this is what I want to do, but if this kit I purchased works I'll just go that route.

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