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Old 09-27-2015, 03:34 PM   #1
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Regen Cycle Question

Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
You have steel casing and a brass pitless adapter and it looks like you have a 3 wire pump with an above ground control box because of the 4 conductor cable; 2 hots, a start and a ground wires.

IRB (iron reducing bacteria) is made up of numerous types or aerobic and anaerobic bacteria that live in and under water in and on the earth. They are harmless but produce slime and encrustations that can reduce well production. They can produce odor problems and they can colonize a softener etc.. You can sanitize the softener with like a half cup of bleach and a manual regeneration stopping it in the Brining position for like 15-20 minutes and then plugging it back in and allowing it to finish on its own. DO NOT MIX bleach with any type of resin cleaner like Iron Out etc..

Shocking a well cab cause serious pump, water quality, cable and drop pipe problems. Repeated shocking of a well can make an IRB problem worse because they produce slime and encrustations that chlorine can not penetrate. Then you get into well cleaning and/or rehabilitation if it can be done.

Pellet droppers should only be used when absolutely needed. They can cause pump and cable problems but if the dose is fine tuned those problems don't happen; especially in a 5" or larger diameter well as you have.

About 99% of all softeners can have the resin replaced. Most control valves like Autotrol, Clack, Erie or Fleck can be rebuilt very affordably. Many national brands use those brands of control valves but don't tell you which one but it's easy to find pictures on the internet and compare. Some of those national brands use a proprietary version of the stock valves; like most of WaterCare valves.

You haven't said how much of a problem the IRB is. It may not be the cause of your softener's problem.

Any odor to this water?

How much iron in the water?

How much hardness?

What is the pH?

Are you interested in being a DIYer or do you want to be dependent on a local dealer for service and parts?
Just found this in a search. How do I know when the regen cycle is in the brine position and about how long does it take to get to that point?


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Old 09-28-2015, 07:24 PM   #2
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You should start a new thread.
one of the first questions from some one like me, What is the system we are dealing with?


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Old 09-28-2015, 08:21 PM   #3
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I have one of those Autotrol 255 systems with the mechanical timer and the little metal tabs you pull in and out to set which days you want it to regenerate. I used a screwdriver to manually start the regen cycle by pushing in and turning the red knob.

It is pretty obvious when the backwash is done but, once the brine cycle starts it empties the brine tank and does a slow rinse. I want to allow the system to pull in most of the chlorinated water and stop for 20 minutes but it is not obvious how to do that. If I unplug the controller mid-brine cycle, it just keeps going. The valves don't close.
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:26 PM   #4
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Gave question it's own thread.
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:42 PM   #5
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By the way, my problem is this. I have long had rotten egg smelling water but now it is also cloudy white. The rotten egg smell would fluctuate over time. It seemed to get worse after long periods of either lots or little rain. I thought my cloudy issue was a fouled water softener bed. I admit that I have let it run out of salt a couple of times and my water got pretty hard. But when I put it into bypass and let the cold water run for 5+ minutes, it is still slightly cloudy. It is better than the water that came through the softener but not perfect. I use clear glasses filled with water and put them against or on top of a dark background. I then shine a super bright LED flashlight through it and look at the scattered light against the dark background. Poland springs water gives zero scattered light. The water from the well gives a little scattered light and water through the softener is about twice as bad. More info. The cloudiness is worse if the water sits in the system overnight and even worse after a long weekend away. Our toilets also have a blueish greenish stain that forms over time. The sinks also slowly build up the same film and it does seem to be more of a film than stain. I have started to wonder if this all isn't just IRB or algae building up in the softener and pipes. Hence the desire to shock the softener. I also bought some highly rated resin cleaner. It is supposed to be way better than your usual iron out stuff. Haven't tried that yet.
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