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Old 09-07-2008, 01:25 PM   #1
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ready to finish rough-ins in basement


I am finishing up my rough-ins for the toilet and would like to confirm the final steps.

1) connecting a toilet-offset flange; do I caulk or glue?
2) same with the shower drain?

but mostly how should I patch the basement floor?

3) which concrete type should I use for the patch work and should I maintain the same concrete depth as the floor 4" or can I fill with stone and go to 2"?
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:48 PM   #2
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What are we looking at in the bottom picture? The offset toilet flange should be floor-level and should not have a pipe sticking up out of it.

Your pipes all appear to be ABS plastic (black plastic). Use ABS cleaner to clean the pipes and fittings to be joined and use ABS cement to glue the fittings and pipes in place. It must be done quickly. The glue will set in a matter of seconds.

No use for caulk here!!!!!!!!!!

I'd suggest filling the area around the pipes with a little gravel and pouring close to the full thickness of the slab. Since the toilet will be sitting on it, it is good to have it nice and strong. Regular gravel mix concrete will work just fine.

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Old 09-07-2008, 10:49 PM   #3
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Also, the bottom plate of the framed wall should be treated material, even with the foam sillsealer installed. Might be an illusion, but it sure looks like the wall on the left doesn't have a treated plate.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:19 AM   #4
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ready to finish rough-ins in basement


Quote:
Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
Also, the bottom plate of the framed wall should be treated material, even with the foam sillsealer installed. Might be an illusion, but it sure looks like the wall on the left doesn't have a treated plate.
Uh, you just flunked your "online" Rough Framing Inspection....
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:20 PM   #5
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HA! Nah, wasn't trying to nitpick...Just trying to save the OP the inconvenience of failing the real inspection when the time comes.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:15 PM   #6
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Here (by code) only perimeter walls (along exterior walls) need to be treated lumber; inside walls need not be. However, I should have been smarter for wet areas.... only makes sense I guess.

The off-set flange is not installed... because the ones I have seen PVC and not abs so I was worried about marrying the two.

I apprecaite the comments, eventhough I failed NE USA code. As long as the walls plates last me till retirement. (20 years to go).
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:06 PM   #7
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PS ...
can I pour concrete on concrete to build my slope for my shower pan? for example from 1" to 1/2" toward the drain.
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:21 PM   #8
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I would suggest a bond break for your shower mud pan, situated between the slab and the pre-pan. Something as simple as felt paper would work. You must slope the pan no less than 1/4" per foot, and must incorporate a waterproof membrane such as Kerdi.
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:14 PM   #9
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thekctermite would 6 mil. poly be as good?
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:50 PM   #10
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Probably. I prefer felt because it isn't slippery. Packing the very dry mud down would be tricky on a slippery surface like poly. It isn't poured like concrete, and doesn't have nearly as much water. I think it would be a real challenge.
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:29 AM   #11
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You suggested a bond break between thge sloped shower base and the shower pan. Would this bond break between the basement floor slab and the new shower base be good too? I was hoping to get away with only pouring a sloped base on top of the existing floor slab (1" to 1/2"). Someone recommended cutting the entire shower floor slab, to the gravel and the repouring an entirely new slab, sloped as required. I can image that this is probably the best way, however, I am trying to gauge the work effort to then end result.
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:10 PM   #12
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Leave the existing slab. Put down some felt paper, otherwise if your basement floor cracks your shower will crack with it. Also, it prevents the basement slab from sucking the water out of the very dry mixed mud you place for the base...It has so little water than losing any to seepage will cause it to lose strength. Pour/pack your mud base on top(better do some research on how this is done), and I'd plan on at least a couple inches of thickness.

How do you intend to waterproof the tile shower base? Tile and thinset are not waterproof by themselves. If you just want to do the base in one placement of mud, your only real option is Kerdi by Schluter. There are other membrane systems and materials available, but most go between a sloped pre-pan and the mud base itself, and are incorporated into the drain.

Last edited by Termite; 09-10-2008 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:02 PM   #13
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You have it right. I was intending on using the Kerdi for water-proofing over the sloped base and up the wall about 24" (underneath) and on top and along the seems of the concrete backer board, applying thinset for the tiling afterwards.

Another suggestion someone offered was compressed foam ready-made foam, cut to shape, as it would offer some insulation between the cold of the concrete slab, the follow-up with Kerdi.

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