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-   -   ready to finish rough-ins in basement (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/ready-finish-rough-ins-basement-26425/)

micgall 09-07-2008 02:25 PM

ready to finish rough-ins in basement
 
2 Attachment(s)
I am finishing up my rough-ins for the toilet and would like to confirm the final steps.

1) connecting a toilet-offset flange; do I caulk or glue?
2) same with the shower drain?

but mostly how should I patch the basement floor?

3) which concrete type should I use for the patch work and should I maintain the same concrete depth as the floor 4" or can I fill with stone and go to 2"?

Termite 09-07-2008 11:48 PM

What are we looking at in the bottom picture? The offset toilet flange should be floor-level and should not have a pipe sticking up out of it.

Your pipes all appear to be ABS plastic (black plastic). Use ABS cleaner to clean the pipes and fittings to be joined and use ABS cement to glue the fittings and pipes in place. It must be done quickly. The glue will set in a matter of seconds.

No use for caulk here!!!!!!!!!!

I'd suggest filling the area around the pipes with a little gravel and pouring close to the full thickness of the slab. Since the toilet will be sitting on it, it is good to have it nice and strong. Regular gravel mix concrete will work just fine.

Termite 09-07-2008 11:49 PM

Also, the bottom plate of the framed wall should be treated material, even with the foam sillsealer installed. Might be an illusion, but it sure looks like the wall on the left doesn't have a treated plate. :no:

AtlanticWBConst. 09-08-2008 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekctermite (Post 156080)
Also, the bottom plate of the framed wall should be treated material, even with the foam sillsealer installed. Might be an illusion, but it sure looks like the wall on the left doesn't have a treated plate. :no:

:( Uh, you just flunked your "online" Rough Framing Inspection....

Termite 09-08-2008 07:20 PM

HA! Nah, wasn't trying to nitpick...Just trying to save the OP the inconvenience of failing the real inspection when the time comes. :)

micgall 09-08-2008 09:15 PM

Thanks guys
 
Here (by code) only perimeter walls (along exterior walls) need to be treated lumber; inside walls need not be. However, I should have been smarter for wet areas.... only makes sense I guess.

The off-set flange is not installed... because the ones I have seen PVC and not abs so I was worried about marrying the two.

I apprecaite the comments, eventhough I failed NE USA code. As long as the walls plates last me till retirement. (20 years to go).

micgall 09-08-2008 11:06 PM

Concrete on concrete
 
PS ...
can I pour concrete on concrete to build my slope for my shower pan? for example from 1" to 1/2" toward the drain.

Termite 09-08-2008 11:21 PM

I would suggest a bond break for your shower mud pan, situated between the slab and the pre-pan. Something as simple as felt paper would work. You must slope the pan no less than 1/4" per foot, and must incorporate a waterproof membrane such as Kerdi.

micgall 09-09-2008 09:14 PM

Thanks termite
 
thekctermite would 6 mil. poly be as good?

Termite 09-09-2008 11:50 PM

Probably. I prefer felt because it isn't slippery. Packing the very dry mud down would be tricky on a slippery surface like poly. It isn't poured like concrete, and doesn't have nearly as much water. I think it would be a real challenge.

micgall 09-10-2008 12:29 PM

I am confusing the issue sorry
 
You suggested a bond break between thge sloped shower base and the shower pan. Would this bond break between the basement floor slab and the new shower base be good too? I was hoping to get away with only pouring a sloped base on top of the existing floor slab (1" to 1/2"). Someone recommended cutting the entire shower floor slab, to the gravel and the repouring an entirely new slab, sloped as required. I can image that this is probably the best way, however, I am trying to gauge the work effort to then end result.

Termite 09-10-2008 05:10 PM

Leave the existing slab. Put down some felt paper, otherwise if your basement floor cracks your shower will crack with it. Also, it prevents the basement slab from sucking the water out of the very dry mixed mud you place for the base...It has so little water than losing any to seepage will cause it to lose strength. Pour/pack your mud base on top(better do some research on how this is done), and I'd plan on at least a couple inches of thickness.

How do you intend to waterproof the tile shower base? Tile and thinset are not waterproof by themselves. If you just want to do the base in one placement of mud, your only real option is Kerdi by Schluter. There are other membrane systems and materials available, but most go between a sloped pre-pan and the mud base itself, and are incorporated into the drain.

micgall 09-10-2008 10:02 PM

You have it right. I was intending on using the Kerdi for water-proofing over the sloped base and up the wall about 24" (underneath) and on top and along the seems of the concrete backer board, applying thinset for the tiling afterwards.

Another suggestion someone offered was compressed foam ready-made foam, cut to shape, as it would offer some insulation between the cold of the concrete slab, the follow-up with Kerdi.


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