Re-installing saddle valve on newly installed water heater connections

Grampa Bud

To the man, do you mean the tank points straight up or the mounting nipple points straight up? I also prefer to mount them with the tank on top of the pipe just to keep any coarse grit out of the bladder entrance, but many times an install like this just doesn't have the head room. A better solution in this situation would be to mount the tank on a 5-10 deg. slope from horizontal, nipple pointing downward.

Michael Thomas

Irrespective of whether a saddle valve meets the minimum code requirements in you location, many that I see eventually leak. Installing a tee and a conventional valve is a more reliable approach.

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bandjf

Saddle valves are prone to leaking, but CAN work. I would stay away from your water heater though, anything goes wrong there you are looking at a higher cost for repairs due to all of the soldering joints there. Do you have a cold water line else where, so you can cut in and use a compression tee?

the_man

I meant the inlet threads of the tank at the bottom. The way its normally done where I'm at is install a galv tee onto the cold nipple coming out of the tank. Use an 8-12 inch nipple on the branch, install a 90, then mount the tank to the 90. I've also put the tank on the run of the tee (top) and used the branch for the water inlet. On the water inlet, I'll put in a short nipple then dielectric union or copper flex line. Yes, I know that galv. will rust on the inside, but that tanks not going to last more than 15 years, and the piping should be replaced with the tank.