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Old 11-13-2010, 06:45 PM   #16
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Quick help on PVC layout before I glue


>>>Thank you, I can move the box over another stud to lengthen that sort piece. Or are you talking about the vertical piece between the box and trap?<<<

I'm talking about the vertical piece comming out of the trap, UPC calls for that piece to be 18-30in. out of the trap, most codes are similar, you should be able to cut your tee down as far as possible and just add a longer piece out the trap. I would also sugest that you use a single lever valve on your hook-up, most manufactors recommend that you turn off the machine when not in use, these make it easier.


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Old 11-13-2010, 08:43 PM   #17
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Thanks for the suggestion on the single lever valve. I saw those when I was picking up parts yesterday. I just bought a plain box with no valves, so I can add whichever valves are best for the application.

Here is the layout after fixing the vertical.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:30 PM   #18
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You came here and asked if your plumbing schemes were correct and as it turns out, none are. That your inspector told you to do it that way or that he will sign off on work that is not to code and not correct should be setting bells off in your head. If you dump the waste into the ejector tanks vent, every time those fixtures drain they block the vent so that if someone else say flushes the toilet, it won't. You can't double up on the two fixtures into one pipe either for the same reason. When the washer is draining, the sink won't. At least not very well.

PS: Never let your wife read this thread either because when the toilet is spewing poo's all over the tile floor gues who will be saying " I told you so"
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:49 PM   #19
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Yeah, your inspector is probably preparing for retirement. Either that or he has no clue what he's doing and should lose his job. Maybe the fact that you are a homeowner, he's giving you a break but, not for your own good. I can guarantee that a professional would not recieve that luxury. I would ask him to show you in the code where it specifies this being acceptable. If he can't (and he won't unless he uses an ancient code book) then I'd ask for a second inspector's opinion. If they both say the same thing, get it in writing, get their names, and keep that forever. That way you'll know who to sue when your set-up doesn't work.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:52 PM   #20
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Thank you guys for your input. I'm going to look further into bringing the line into the pit without tee-ing into the vent. I do have a question about the waste line being the same for the washer and the sink:

In my current laundry room upstairs (again, it was built by professionals inspected and passed in 2002), the washer is hooked up to a 2" line. The sink in the laundry room is a 1.5" line that connects to the washers 2" line with a wye under the floor. Wouldn't this be the same situation as what I am considering doing by putting the sink at the end of the line carrying the washer? I understand codes may change and it may not be code to build it that way any more - but I don't have any drainage problems with the sink and washer upstairs?

To remedy the sink situation, should/could I just run another line parallel/below the washer line and into the pit?


I guess at this point, you guys are my only resource, since the inspector could be leading me astray. If I made the suggested changes as shown on this diagram, what else do I need to change? I would leave the venting to the pit alone, except where I tie in the common vent line - then put 2 new taps into the pit: one for washer one for, sink.
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:59 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyunelan2 View Post
hyunelan2,

Do you feel comfortable with the trap inside of the double wall? Personally, I wouldn't want a trap in a double wall since clogs seem to like traps. If a clog happens in the trap, I think you will be hard pressed to get a snake to make the turn. Also, where are all of your clean out access? I don't see any. When you have a clog, how do you propose to run a snake to clean it out?

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Old 11-14-2010, 08:17 AM   #22
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Quick help on PVC layout before I glue


Yeah, I don't have a problem with the trap behind drywall. That's the way my current laundry room setup is. Running a snake down the drain hole in the washer box would be able to access the trap if it needed cleanout. Adding cleanouts to that line would leave exposed PVC outside of the finished wall. I'd rather cut out a piece of drywall than live with exposed pipes outside the finished wall.

For the sink line, I can just snake right through the pipe clear to the end if I had to - and the trap for the sink will be under cabinet, like is common for kitchen/bath setups.
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Old 11-14-2010, 07:04 PM   #23
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You can't double up on the two fixtures into one pipe either for the same reason. When the washer is draining, the sink won't. At least not very well.
I'm just curious about what you said above. Recently I re-tiled my bathroom and saw the way the plumbing was run (I didn't change any plumbing). The tub drains into a 1 1/2" copper pipe that runs across the bathroom past the sink which drains into the same pipe and over to the toilet stack. There is a vent coming out of that 1 1/2" pipe near the tub.

I've never had an issue draining the tub while someone is shower and using the sink drain. I am curious about what you said above, my plumbing is 50 years old, are things run differently these days?
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:21 AM   #24
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Neither the tub nor the lav have an appliance attached to the drain that pumps water out under pressure so what you have is fine.

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