Remodelling our basement after having it water proofed. Short of it all is basement was completely finished prior but had to be gutted due to mold and damage to the bottom plates on the walls from prolonged exposure to water. I'm going to use a ceiling max system http://www.acpideas.com/index.cfm?XlinkID=13 and need to have a clear run from one end to the other to start the ceiling. I could due a soffet but I'm not liking that idea due to the old school basement window there. The house uses baseboard hotwater heat and thus the plumbing for it is copper. I'm not exactly found of the idea of notching the joists even though some of the websites I've read say you can, so I want to explore other options. Could you use PEX for this? Do I need to insulate the lumber from the pipe if I run it through the joist? Thoughts?
You're not furring the walls outand adding sheetrock? Doing so would easily conceal the pipe you're dealing with.
You can notch your joists 25% of their depth in the outer 1/3 of the span but in my opinion doing so sucks. It is a turnoff to prospective buyers down the road too.
I can't imagine that PEX couldn't be used for that application (and ran through holes in the joists), but I can't say I've ever used it for that. Do you have a boiler, steam, or regular hot water tank???
oil fired furnace not sure what you mean by boiler or hot water, but it's definately not steam, it's hot water. I'm gonna say in the 180+ degree range with it running at about 25 psi if I remember properly.
PS, I am adding furring strips to the walls but the pipe isn't a straight run. The pictures don't show it well, but the pipe doesn't sit true on the wall, it actually runs off at an angle and in the end is 4 inches off the cinder blocks
Last edited by kossuth; 08-15-2009 at 12:08 AM.
Reason: more info