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Old 09-04-2010, 09:34 AM   #1
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PVC Bonding with Primer? Just Cement?

Correction: Title should read PVC..

My dad just put in a 1" T on his water line coming into his house. (It is regular PVC..) He is putting in sprinklers and is coming off the main water line to the house. He primed, then cemented each joint. Then let it sit for 2 hours.. We turned on the water and POOF. One of the joints opened up.

I've never used primer before on brand new Sch 40 PCV. Do you use Primer?

The primer doesn't say how much to add, How long to wait before cement, or mention wiping it off, etc.. Is primer really ever needed?

How long should we have waited? Pressure is around 80 PSI..

Also, I didn't think PVC was used for potable water, is it just Hot water you can't use it for?


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Old 09-04-2010, 09:47 AM   #2
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You use primer and then glue on PVC. Set time depends on temperature but a minute or two is usually enough. I suspect that if it blew apart he forgot to glue that joint or used way too much glue. A very thin light coat is all you need.


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Old 09-04-2010, 10:33 AM   #3
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Glue and primer will make the strongest joint. I agree that the joint that blew apart was not properly done, as even just the glue should have held for a while. My waterlines in Florida were all PVC, except for the hot water. Where I live in Arkansas, the line from the meter to the house is PVC.
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:58 PM   #4
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Do not drop PVC pipe. While it has a high PSI rating it is still brittle and dropping it can cause invisible damage.

The pipe and the fitting should both be clean and dry. Avoid touching the freshly cleaned fitting and pipe as oil from your skin can prevent a good solid connection. Do NOT sand either one of them with sandpaper as is often recommended. PVC uses an interference fit and sanding it throws that fit off. When you cut the pipe it is important that it be cut as square as possible. Once cut, the edge of the pipe should be chamfered at a 10-15 degree angle. A lot of people skip that step but almost all fitting manufacturers deem is necessary. Ridgid makes a tool for it.

Prime the fitting and the pipe. There is some debate as to whether you should let the primer dry or apply the "glue" right away. Apply glue to the inside of the fitting and the pipe. Insert the pipe into the fitting and turn it at least a quarter turn as you do so. This makes sure the glue is dispersed within the fitting properly. Inserting the pipe straight into the fitting can cause lines in the glue which weakens the weld. Hold the fitting for 30 seconds to prevent push out. Wipe excess glue off the fitting and pipe. The glue dissolves the plastic causing the two pieces to become permanently bonded.

This method should create a nice strong weld between the two pieces that is stronger than the pipe itself.

Since this is you house mainline I'd recommend leaving the water turned off for as long as possible. Both ends of the pipe are sealed and so the weld will take longer to cure than a pipe that is exposed to circulating fresh air. 24 hours would be ideal. After that turn the water on and check for leaks. I wouldn't recommend burying the pipe (if it is buried) for at least a day or two just to be sure. 1" PVC is rated for 450psi, so 80psi is nothing that will strain it.

Also, if PVC is going to be exposed to sunlight it must be painted. In my town it is code that any PVC used outdoors must be painted with latex paint. PVC is susceptible to deterioration from sunlight. It might be okay for quite sometime but eventually the sun will destroy.

Last edited by Reddhead; 09-08-2010 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:15 PM   #5
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Depending on the temperature you should not test your line until at least an hour has passed.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:56 PM   #6
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Primer and cement definitely for supply lines. for waste lines- lower pressure- some say use primer some say it is not necessary.
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:15 PM   #7
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As someone mentioned, chamfering the edge and twisting the fitting after connection are very important.

Another thing even more important is to make sure the cement has not expired. If the cement has been sitting around for awhile and looks like gloppy gel, then toss it. The cement should be runny.


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