pump looses prime, runs forever, burns out PVC pipe

noquacks

People,

My well has a goulds pump, and sometimes, say if the pump shifts and pvc pipe twists, then creates a leak, pump will loose prime, which trips the pressure switch of course, then pump will run forever (say, if Im at work), get hot, and melt the pvc tubing. geez, Ive replaced this tubing 3-4 times already.

So, I now one problem is to secure pump better, but even still, if pump losses prime again, I would like to hook up a cut off switch somehow, so at least the pump electrical will be automatically cut off. . How do I do it?

Thanks

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del schisler

All the pipes comming out of the pump should be iron pipe niples and not pvc. The pvc cant take the heat even tho it will work for a while . Use iron pipe niples than pvc pipe than you will be ok. The iron pipe takes the heat. The pump should be anchored down so it doesn't move .

joed

They make pressure switches that will cut off if the pressure drops too low. So during normal operation they run the pressure up and down. However if the pressure drops below 10 psi they must be manually reset to start the pump.
Here is the first one I found

http://www.amazon.com/Square-FSG2J24.../dp/B000FKBY8W

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sdsester

Could also put a temperature cut-off on but the pressure sensor would be a better approach.

Is it draining the well below its intake or something? What is causing it to lose prime and suction? Do you need a water level cut-off?

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noquacks

Thanks, Del. But the hardware store "experts" told me no way to arrange such a set up with all steel. But Im suspicious of them experts. I am willing to convert to all steel if possible.

Still, issue remains- when pump looses prime, steel or pvc I dont want the pump to run all day long dry, even though, I understand that if steel, wont loose prime as often....

How do I convert to steel if inlet/outlet female threads are turning BOTH in clockwise direction to tighten?? Thats the confusing part.....

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noquacks

Good to know, joed. Im getting there.....

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joed

duplicate

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joed

No problem going all steel. You need a union.

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Maintenance 6

Don't use steel fittings on a well pump. Use Brass if you must use metal. The low pressure cut off switch is the answer. My pump has run for 40 years with ABS plastic pipe and never melted down. A pump that is running properly will never generate enough heat to melt plastic.

noquacks

Thnaks, joed and maintenence. I leart a few things here- that one CAN replace with metal , and I DID! Joed, that union is just what I got! man, got it done right this time! Now, Maintenence6, I know brass is beter, but they didnt have it- they did have galv though.

Right- if/when I decide to put on a cut off switch, it will be what they call a FLOW dependent cut off switch. But, thats quite a bit of work on steel tubing. Still, at least now I know. I dont suspect my pump will be loosing prime any time soon.

Thnaks, people.

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biggles

the only heat generated is from the motor winding looking for the coldest point to migrate towards as in water.if the winding is above the water temp even at 80F that is cold compared to the winding....and stator.

noquacks

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noquacks

Dang, just when you figure you giot everything done right (pump not loosing prime anymore) problem comes back- a day later!. I posted above picture, in case it might help. Now, even if I install the flow cut off switch (and if theres an ideal place to install it, let me know0, I will be having to reprime every day.

Why is the pump switching on and running for hours until I notice it? (if pump is noticed running say, for only a few minutes up to about an hour, and I open a hose connected to the line system, it purges out some air, and reprimes itself, at least until the leak acts up)

Thanks!

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joecaption

On the right hand side of your picture where the lines starts to run under ground there's a brass check valve. Replace it. It's what keeps the water from running back down the well pipe under ground.
There's also should have been what's called a foot valve at the bottom of the pipe in the well, that also acts as a check valve.

noquacks

Thanks, Joe, but man, I replaced that brass check valve just this past fall. cant figure it had gone bad soooo fast(?). But, hey, maybe it has. Any way of testing its integrity without unscrewing all those big pipes?

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