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Old 07-18-2013, 08:12 PM   #16
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


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Originally Posted by Javiles View Post
use Teflon pipe dope or a good grade pipe dope. if its starts to leak again
This is the simplest way to repair your problem and is what I do every time I assemble a compression fitting.
The pipe dope adds lubrication and fills in any slight imperfections in the ferul machining or the pipe.
Drain your line, smear teflon paste/dope on the existing ferul and a slight amount on the male threads- retighten.
Side note- compression joints should not be concealed

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Old 07-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #17
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


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As far as getting rid of the compression fitting goes, that is not an option as it is an integral part of the valve assembly. I would have to replace the entire valve and the Watts valves run around 30-35 dollars. They are worth every penny though when you consider the high rate of premature failure with the off brand versions like the one the Lowes plumbing expert tried to sell me.
If the ell is designed the way I think it is, the copper pipe will fit directly inside it. Then it gets soldered like any other fitting.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:44 PM   #18
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Just a stupid question but why didn't you just solder the 1/2 inch copper into the valve like I did thousands of times.... You need not use the threads.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #19
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


So what I'm understanding from the last couple of posts is that I can just sweat my copper stub onto my current el and just throwy out the compression nut and bevel? I'm assuming that I must also separate the valve and the o-rings from those els befor I sweat the copper on. But I'm still going to need to replace those copper stubs because they've had those bevels squeezed on them. And when I'm done, I will have a sweated joint that is better for this application in the first place right?
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:00 PM   #20
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Yes sweating is always better. Your joints look better than most, you look like the one was not hot enough when you put the solder to it, but solder has changed a lot over the years, so you are probably good. Sounds to me like you over tightened the compression nuts. The brass fittings of today are worlds apart from all the 15 year old fittings I use. IF the dollar weakens, metals become more expensive. So you tell me if the valves are different than a few years ago. And yes, take the valves apart before heating anything. You are overthinking this, just jump into it and make sure it feels right going together

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Old 07-18-2013, 11:59 PM   #21
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


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So what I'm understanding from the last couple of posts is that I can just sweat my copper stub onto my current el and just throwy out the compression nut and bevel? I'm assuming that I must also separate the valve and the o-rings from those els befor I sweat the copper on. But I'm still going to need to replace those copper stubs because they've had those bevels squeezed on them. And when I'm done, I will have a sweated joint that is better for this application in the first place right?
Well... Your picture shows us the hose connection side?
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:40 AM   #22
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Those look like ground joint unions instead of compression fittings.

To the OP: is there a ferrule in the fitting?
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:46 PM   #23
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Yes, there is a ferrel inside but I overtightened it. I'm just going to undo it and start over and sweat the inside of the el rather than messing with a comprression nut on the outside especially considering this will be behind the wall. Sweat joints all the way around are the better option.

I'll post another picture or two when done.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:50 PM   #24
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Behind the wall???... YES... SWEAT IT !!!!!!
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:10 PM   #25
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Sorry wrong valve. The one i use was straight out of the box with threads and a male solder joint in it. Leaving the plumber a choice. I would suggest you get that type.

The valve your trying to use is not for a washer box it is for a direct wall mount.
Go get a new washer box kit with valve.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

30 bucks and no leak
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:33 PM   #26
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Nope! I'm replacing an Oatey valve that corroded to the point that it would no longer shut off all the way. That one has mixed reviews as well. Trying my luck with the Watts valve I have even though it is not designed for a box, I can make it work in the box. Here is an outside shot but I still have to redo it with sweat joints.
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Sorry wrong valve. The one i use was straight out of the box with threads and a male solder joint in it. Leaving the plumber a choice. I would suggest you get that type.

The valve your trying to use is not for a washer box it is for a direct wall mount.
Go get a new washer box kit with valve.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

30 bucks and no leak
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:18 PM   #27
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Where is your washer vent? I see none...

You need to vent that with a tee and pipe out the roof where your first 90 is. You also need to shorten your drain drop to the trap so it is no longer then 42 inches to the top of your trap. If you have no vent it will not drain correctly and may pull traps when used.

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Old 07-22-2013, 12:15 PM   #28
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It vents upstream of where it T's into the the main. These are old pics when I was fitting it all together. The drop is 39" So I think I'm OK there.
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Where is your washer vent? I see none...

You need to vent that with a tee and pipe out the roof where your first 90 is. You also need to shorten your drain drop to the trap so it is no longer then 42 inches to the top of your trap. If you have no vent it will not drain correctly and may pull traps when used.
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:31 PM   #29
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


Not legal to any code I know.. Probably will not work. Get a professional plumber to install it clearly your over your head.
Your house so destroy its value as you see fit. My plumbing works great..
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:53 PM   #30
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problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup


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Not legal to any code I know.. Probably will not work. Get a professional plumber to install it clearly your over your head.
Your house so destroy its value as you see fit. My plumbing works great..
I am so not in over my head. I rebuilt my bathroom from the ground up with help from the pros on this site. Jim's downstairs bathroom project

And, isn't this a DIY site. If I feel something is beyond my abilities, it will hire a pro. In fact, the professional plumber I do use when I need one approved of this venting plan as did one or two professionals on this site in 2010 when I did my bathroom project.

Besides, you should have seen the intallation job the original plumbing subcontractor did. He had the shower anf laundry running into a common running trap through 1.5" pipes and the shower was at least 7 feet away from the only vent.

Any other plumbers or remodelors care to weigh in on this?

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