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-   -   problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/problematic-compression-fitting-laundry-hookup-183777/)

Jim F 07-18-2013 01:25 AM

problematic compression fitting on laundry hookup
 
1 Attachment(s)
I finally installed the Watts washing machine valve that I bought several years ago. everything went well except that I cannot get the one on the left to stop dripping. I did get some solder on the stub but sanded that off. I initially could not stop either of them from dripping but then realized the I didn't have any thread tape on so unscrewed both of them and reassembled with the tape. I got the cold to stop but not hot.There came a point where the drip got worse the tighter I made it. Now I fear that I may have overtightened it. Any suggestions?

Jim F 07-18-2013 01:32 AM

So I posted this question the found this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u77SJgIS4mY . I didn't put the teflon tape inside like the video shows, just on the outer thread. Is that proper technique? I didn't think you were supposed to put tape inside.

joecaption 07-18-2013 06:31 AM

Did those fittings come with the box?
The reason I ask is I've never once seen what looks like drop legs elbows used for the connections. All I've seen is straight fittings.
Any drop leg I've seen is just soldered on one end and 1/2 female Pipe thread on the other.

Jim F 07-18-2013 07:57 AM

Here is the valve I am using http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Water-Te...productDetails .

The box was already there, I am just making it work. I figured I'd have a problem with one of my sweat joints. It's been a while since I've sweated copper. I never dreamed the compression fittings would give me fits.

djlandkpl 07-18-2013 08:30 AM

I looked at the Watts site and couldn't find the model listed from your Amazon link. The current model is offered with threaded/solder connections OR soldered/compression fittings. You may have the one with threaded/solder connections that will not work with compression fittings.

Jim F 07-18-2013 05:33 PM

The point is, this is what I have now. It is the compression fitting that is failing and I'm trying to find out what I can do about it.

Is it possible that I overtightened it?

Should I take it apart adne replade the nipple that connects to the compression valve?

Is it proper technique to wrap teflon tape around the nipple and compression ring like the video I posted?

I had difficulty finding this model too when I looked again but severaly years ago when I bought it, I found it. And I think I actually bought from Pexsupply rather than Amazon but they no longer offer it.

Update: I got it down to a slow drip when I posted the original question and left it overnight. This morning, it was not leaking at all so I may have resolved it. I plan to run it through some of and on cycles to make sure the seal doesn't jar loose but I'm still thinkin gI should replace the compression ring and nipple which will requre more sweating of joints.

I'm looking for a few expert opinions here considering Lowes and HD are not much help.

Javiles 07-18-2013 05:49 PM

use Teflon pipe dope or a good grade pipe dope. if its starts to leak again

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-18-2013 06:31 PM

Jim..... If that is a compression fitting, both sides of it, you don't put tape on the ferrel.... matter of fact you don't put tape on the threads. (Is that what you did.)

The seal is made by the soft brass as it compresses/forms on the seats of the compression fitting and as it squezes the copper pipe. Threads are just there so you can tightly compress the fitting.

However, I do not think you have a compression fitting there, or else your tape is interfering with the compression seal.

Best

Peter

SeniorSitizen 07-18-2013 06:51 PM

Your solder joints look real professional but back up and start over by having someone hide the tape and dope where you can't find it. It is for screw threads and not compression fittings and quit watching those stupid videos. If you like putting something on these parts put a couple of drops of lube oil on the threads.

I suspect you fitted the compression fitting last. This time, with a new ferrule and length of tubing, fit it first by putting a length of tubing in the valve until it bottoms, run the nut up with ferrule on until all slack is removed, stops at finger tight and then turn the nut 1 round while being sure the tubing stays bottomed out in the valve.

Remove it and cut tubing to the length needed to solder in the ell. Now when you make up the ferrule fitting it will only need be tightened just beyond finger tight and will get real firm real quick. If done right the ferrule will rotate on the tubing, won't come off the tubing easy and the tubing end won't look like a bugle.

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-18-2013 07:21 PM

+!^^^^^^^^

Fairview.... good way to explain to Jim how to line up that compression fitting....

However, are you pretty positive that that drop ear is a compression seat... not sure what else it would be.... guess it must be....but I guess I had not seen/used one before??

Best

Peter

Edit... I'm looking at it again... and I guess there is no room for a nipple in there... so I guess it must be a compression seat drop ear........

SeniorSitizen 07-18-2013 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC (Post 1217662)
+!^^^^^^^^

Fairview.... good way to explain to Jim how to line up that compression fitting....

However, are you pretty positive that that drop ear is a compression seat... not sure what else it would be.... guess it must be....but I guess I had not seen/used one before??

Best

Peter

Edit... I'm looking at it again... and I guess there is no room for a nipple in there... so I guess it must be a compression seat drop ear........

No Sir, not sure at all.

djlandkpl 07-18-2013 07:36 PM

The OP confirmed he has the compression fitting version of the valve.

Since you have to cut it apart and start over, why not ditch the compression fittings and solder the connection.

Jim F 07-18-2013 08:39 PM

Thanks for some real good advice. That is what I like about this site. It is admittedly an oddball model of a Watts washing machine valve. Home Depot has a display of all their available fittings and the compression nut that I had to buy seperately was a deadon fit. I didn't think pipe thread tape had any role in a compression fitting but have not worked with them for a number of years. This is something I should have researched a little before forging ahead. It makes sense now to start with the compression fitting.

Fairview, are you saying I should put the compression fitting on first and only tightening slighlty beyone finger tight, cut my pipe to length, dissassemblr the compression fitting before sweating on the el, then reassemble the the compression fitting? Or do I need to have the fitting set and tightened before sweating on the el?

As far as getting rid of the compression fitting goes, that is not an option as it is an integral part of the valve assembly. I would have to replace the entire valve and the Watts valves run around 30-35 dollars. They are worth every penny though when you consider the high rate of premature failure with the off brand versions like the one the Lowes plumbing expert tried to sell me.

Jim F 07-18-2013 09:07 PM

Now I'm looking at this model http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Water-Te...+machine+valve and thinking I may prefer to us it. It is less expensive than the one I currently have. It to be made of lower quality metal though in spite of the fact that it is still a Watts valve. It it possible that it is a lower grade product, maybe a builder's grade?

SeniorSitizen 07-18-2013 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim F (Post 1217714)

Fairview, are you saying I should put the compression fitting on first and only tightening slighlty beyone finger tight, cut my pipe to length, dissassemblr the compression fitting before sweating on the el, then reassemble the the compression fitting? Or do I need to have the fitting set and tightened before sweating on the el?

No, make the compression fitting up first, with ferrule on, by running the nut up finger tight and then continue to tighten the nut one round. Now that the ferrule is set that fitting can be removed to do what ever is needed to complete the job. In fact that fitting can be removed and re-installed a dozen times if necessary.

Each time the compression fitting is re-installed it will tighten real quickly because it has been made up once and the ferrule need not be compressed again so after the first make up don't attempt to tighten the nut one round again. You'll feel it get tight rather than spongy and quit there.


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