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gone_fishing 04-13-2008 09:19 PM

Problem installing pedestal sink...
I tried installing today and had some issues I could use some advice on:

1) Despite planning it out the right side bolt was 1" to the right of the support board. It is sitting in dry wall. Do I cut a hole in the other side (heater room) and put in a board? The single bolt right now is very sturdy.
2) I tried hooking up the trap. The existing pipe seems to be 1 1/2". The trap is 1 1/4. How do I make this work?
3) The sink is a nice Kohler. I made sure it was level left to right. Problem is that front to back is off about 1". The sink seems to flare up towards the front. Is this ok or do I need to level?

I think this is the sink:

Termite 04-13-2008 09:55 PM

1) Yes, you need to install the second bolt into wood blocking. People lean on sinks! Do not rely on the pedestal to take the weight. You should be able to remove that pedestal and the sink shouldn't move.
2) Get what's called a "furnco" reducer. It is a rubber reducer with hose clamps. Very easy and pretty reliable. Depending on what wall thickness/material type the 1-1/2" pipe is, you might be able to get another type of reducer.
3) The sink should be level, but if you can live with it, it is ok I guess. I would bet you that you anchored it a bit low on the wall, so the pedestal itself is taking the weight of the sink and keeping it from sitting level.

Alan 04-14-2008 10:01 AM

I would HIGHLY reccomend getting a block in behind there. We've installed them before without, but ONLY if the homeowner changes something, and doesn't want us to have to tear the wall out to fix it. Drywall anchors work, but if anyone ever leans on that sink too hard, or friday night gets a little crazy in the bathroom, somebody is going to end up with a piece of porcelain in their you-know-what.

In regards to question 2, we ALWAYS stub out with 1 1/2" for lavatories, our p-trap kits come with a male adapter that glues onto the 1 1/2" stub out, and takes the 1 1/4" trap on the inside. You shouldn't need a furnco for this application. :no:

gone_fishing 04-14-2008 10:39 AM

Thanks for the advice guys...tonight I will cut a hold on the backside and install the blocks. I will also wrap up the pipes.

gone_fishing 04-14-2008 08:13 PM

Well...I cut out the drywall. When I looked at the hole in the wall I realized that I was less then 1/4" below the block I installed!!! I moved the block down and reattached. After some mistaken measurements I got the sink secured. I then attacked the pipe problem. A few cuts got everything lined up. When I turned on the water the connection to the wall (copper) leaked badly. I shut down the water and removed the drain. I then dried it all off. I took a rubber gasket from another pipe and put that behind the plastic seal included. I then put silicon on the threads of the copper pipe. Used a wrench to tighten down really well. Gave it some time to dry and tested. Dry as a bone!

In the end the sink is very secure in the wall with the pedestal as an extra support.

Termite 04-14-2008 11:37 PM

Sheesh! I can't believe I forgot about 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" reducing rings. Sorry. Alan's right, Furnco IS unnecessary!

Ok GoneFishing, you're scaring me here. There is no situation in supply plumbing that should require silicone sealant in the threads. No way. It may be working now, but it likely won't last.

Can you describe the fittings you're using and where the leak is coming from? Or take a picture and show us? Might be able to provide some guidance to make this a good permanent installation.

Glad to hear the sink is solid though!

gone_fishing 04-15-2008 08:32 AM

The silicon was just a backup. The leak was caused by two things...first, the pipe wasn't straight into the fitting. Second, I didn't tighten the fitting with a wrench...I did the other fittings but forgot this one...duh. Once I tightened it down it was nice and tight and didn't budge.

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