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-   -   Price Pfister 3 Valve Shower Replacement water issue (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/price-pfister-3-valve-shower-replacement-water-issue-46953/)

LeviDIY 06-18-2009 01:07 PM

Price Pfister 3 Valve Shower Replacement water issue
 
1 Attachment(s)
Afternoon friendly/helpful/godsent DIYChatroom'ers:

The diagram below is exactly what I am doing in a final step of my bathroom/shower reno (courtesy of Terry Love, thanks!):
Attachment 11318

Fairly simple... I bought a replacement kit at HD for the Price Pfister 3 valve model, figured the valve, stems, seats should be replaced along with the trim pieces. Seems easy enough.
- Shut off the main water to the condo (could not find a tub/shower specific cut off). Ran the kitchen sink and sink in the bathroom that is being remodeled and 2nd bathroom sink shower to bleed the lines out. No water coming out of those.
- Took off the old valves with a socket wrench.

As soon as I started unscrewing the hot valve, water came rushing out. I figured this would happen for a few seconds as any excess bled out, but kept going for 30+ seconds....

Not sure what to do, I just put on the old stem again to stop the water flow. It did. Then, tried the cold side and the diverter. Same thing.

I'm not afraid of melting in the water, if it were coming out straight into the tub to drain.. the problem is that the pipe/seat area that receives the valve is set slightly behind my tile/CBU wall and that water flows behind the CBU and into that area behidn the tub (in the wall). Again, not major if its a bit here or there, but I don't want to be "rushed" in replacing the seats and making sure connections are solid - also, getting teflon tape on thread while water is rushing is a bit difficult.

I don't want to overreact (if you've read my other concerns elsewhere, that is precisely what I do) too much, but it boils down to this:
1) Should water be running/bleeding out longer than 30 seconds after all other faucets in the condo are bled out?
2) If that means the main isn't entirely shut off... any other suggestions?
3) Should I just work with the water rushing through/ignore the water and try to finish as quickly as possible?

(Nice things is I'm on bottom floor, with cement slab underneath, so don't have to worry about downstairs neighbor's ceiling collapsing :) )

adpanko 06-18-2009 01:35 PM

Is the water coming out of both hot and cold at full pressure, or something less than full pressure? If it were just the hot water coming out, I'd say that maybe there is a separate shutoff for the hot water heater supply line (ie the main shutoff doesn't cover the hot water heater, but that wouldn't make sense). Otherwise, the only thing I can think of is that the shower is actually coming from someone else's unit??? I doubt that is it as well though. I'm clueless.

LeviDIY 06-18-2009 01:40 PM

Hahaha... appreciate the thoughts... to answer your question, its not full steam... but its certainly a bit more than a trickle... and its coming form hot and cold valves (and the diverter) in equal force.

adpanko 06-18-2009 01:59 PM

maybe double check that you have the main shut off all the way. If it is a quarter turn valve, then it is obviously easy to tell. But if it is a gate valve, make sure it is indeed cranked all the way shut.

If the water coming out is basically a glorified trickle, maybe then it is/was just whatever water was sitting in the pipe that ran up from body of the mixing valve to the shower head, and when you took off the valves, gravity pulled the water down out of that pipe. But that should have drained in only a few seconds if you had the valve all the way off.

My only other thought is that since you are on the lowest floor of the place, there might be a lot of water in the system throughout the unit above the height of your shower valve, which means there would be a lot to drain down. But if you also drained the other fixtures in that same bathroom, I wouldn't think that would be the case, since they are all at about the same height, if not lower.


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