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Old 03-20-2006, 08:04 AM   #1
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Pressure Tank Question?

I have a deep well system for our irragation (a must in Florida) with a pressure tank. When running our irragation system the pump runs most all of the time as there is a lot of water going through the system. Usually 6 to 8 or 10 heads. I also have a spicket for a hose where the well comes out of the ground. Recently when I turned on the hose the pump comes on and off very rapidly and does this until I turn off the hose. I know that this is very bad on the pump motor and for some reason I cannot fix it. I tried replacing the pressure tank and the problem still exist. I have noticed that even with the tank removed and nothing running, my gauge still shows 40 punds of pressure. Any ideas what is wrong with the system and could I just cap the end and forget the pressure tank? :confused:


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Old 03-20-2006, 03:21 PM   #2
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pressure tank

The pressure tank acts as a schock absorber and reserve capacity. Dont remove it. Does it have a "tire valve" look alike thing on it? If so take an air compressor or just a air 'bubble'(portable air tank for blowing up a slow flat tire) and blow the tank about half full of air. Open the hose valve a 'little' while doing it. That will cease the constant on off cycle, its called water logged in plumber terms!! It needs air every now and then!! If it doesnt have a tire air valve, put one on it!!!
As to the pressure gauge, are you sure it works at all? Sounds stuck to me. does it fluctuate? If not replace it. That part is a couple few bucks. They dont last forever.
my $.02 cents worth (pretax),


Last edited by justdon; 03-20-2006 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:19 PM   #3
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You can't just start pumping air into it without knowing how much you're putting in. If you put in more PSI of air than the pressure switch cut-on setting, the pump will never run as it will think (because of the air) that the pressure is fine.

Push down on the center pin on the air valve on top of the tank...if water come out, the tank is bad. (actually the bladder is bad, but it's not worth trying to replace just the bladder) If air comes out of the valve, then I would agree it sounds like you may just be low on air. Use an air tank (or safer..a bicycle pump) to put in enough air to make the air pressure 2 PSI less than the pressure switch cut-on pressure (which is probably 30, so put in 28 to start with and see what happens).
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:11 AM   #4
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water pump trouble's?

I just had a full water pump installed last August, I have had problems with it ever since it was installed. The same basic problem the points keep kicking the pump on and off again and again just after the water is turned off. And while the water is running it stays on. Something it should not do.It should only come on when the pressure drop's. I called the 1800 number on the water holding tank {base}. Number 1 they never installed a pressure gauge to the pump, then I had asked if it just needed to have air put in the tank. The expert on the phone said to properly install air in the tank you first would have to turn the pump off at the breaker panel, then turn on all the water. It's just to drain the base.The pounds of air pressure needs to be two lb's less than desired pressure on the pressure gauge.example:28 lb's air to 30 lb's desired tank pressure the max pressure is listed on your holding tank somewhere. check with a tire pressure gauge. But, in my case as the earlier post read there is water coming from the air valve, where you would put the air in the tank, in this case their is a tear a rip or a hole in the air bladder of the tank thus over time filling the bladder that is suposed to have air in it with water and basicly having to replace the holding tank.They stated that it could very well have been defected. But, not only is it a worry that the motor will get messed up but, my electric bill has continueing to climb.Good luck I hope any of this might help someone else..
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