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Old 03-11-2009, 10:45 PM   #1
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pressure dazed

I placed a pressure regulator on my water line -main incoming- and a expansion tank on cold side water heater..i set psi on regulator at 65(so i thought) and set expansion tank at 60...I did 2 loads of laundry and the pressure was checked (30 min later) and WOW--it hit 110 psi!both there too much pressure in my expansion tank?-was pre-set at 40 i set to 60 as told bt watts to....(thermal expansion should not exceed that 110 psi with tank in place and regulator set )..if the regulator is working will it still allow it or is the regulator just off on pressure -this is way too high with both on the line...there is a check valve in meter also..

im stumped


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Old 03-11-2009, 11:11 PM   #2
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I'm stumped about why you need and expansion tank.

If water supply has to be reduced by a regulator and you are not on a well..why do you need a tank?

Pressure increasing might be because of your water heater. I looked at a couple post and I saw where you had a TPV leaking and replaced the valve.

What is the age of the water heater?

You might have a calicum build up and the gas valve on the water might not know that the water has heated up to temp and not shutting down. A higher temp in the tank will cause higher pressures in the lines..just a thought.

Still don't understand the tank?


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Old 03-12-2009, 09:48 AM   #3
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sorry but your getting me mixed up with another.I have electric water -not gas-heater and never had to replace the t/p valve.i had spoke on a inline one a while back.I also have a closed system and heater is not very old.4yrs.
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:57 AM   #4
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When you turn the water on again after no water has been used for awhile, do you get spurting suggesting overpressure?

Water heaters of all kinds need an expansion tank. You may need to check and calibrate said tank to be sure the air inside was not all absorbed and the neck of the tank was not clogged with sediment.

If your house did not have and did not need a pressure regulator or a backflow preventer then any expansion the domestic water incurred upon heating would go out to the water main or well.

For good measure against sediment buildup, a new T/P valve should be installed whenever a water heater is replaced.
The good conscientious technician or serviceperson will carry extra oils and lubricants in case the new pump did not come with oil or the oil was accidentally spilled, so the service call can be completed without an extra visit.

Last edited by AllanJ; 03-12-2009 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:04 PM   #5
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yes i do but i think its from air in line.
-I did a recheck on all water outlets and found something kind of odd.-every spicket- 2 out side, the hot on washer, and one on bottom of water heater shows 21 psi -but the cold (not hot)side going into the washing machine showed 62psi(one time high pressure spike to 110 on both needles under pressure) does fluctuate as the regulator is adjusted and as water pressure use changes..but 110 was suprising.

I will surly be readjusting main pressure on regulator to 55 or 60 and set tank at 55 but the washer cold line will again be reading 80ish im sure-

Im still stumped on the cold line for washer reading being so off .It is all copper line and same size throughout-3/4 fittingon regulator -after regulator one of the cold lines may go directly to washer before splitoff to other areas .
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