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-   -   Polyseamseal or GE Silicone II for bathtub caulking ? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/polyseamseal-ge-silicone-ii-bathtub-caulking-169283/)

Rav 01-16-2013 10:31 AM

Polyseamseal or GE Silicone II for bathtub caulking ?
 
I'm starting to research recaulking between my bathtub (cast iron with, I believe, the original porcelain enamel) and the ceramic wall tile. I had been planning to use GE Silicone II Bath & Kitchen caulk, but a friend is advising using Polyseamseal Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk instead. While he agrees the silicone is flexible, he says it can fail to adhere after a while. He says the Polyseamseal has very good adhesion, and is easier to apply (not important to me, I can handle silicone). He says the Poly won't last as long as silicone, but what does that matter if the silicone pulls loose. On the other hand, I've read that Polyseamseal dries "like a rock," and I realize that at a plane change flexibility is needed. Plus it's a wet (but not underwater) area, which I know silicone is good for. What do people here think? Thanks.

DannyT 01-16-2013 10:34 AM

i'd go with the silicone. if the surface is cleaned properly the silicone will last a lot longer.

jagans 01-16-2013 11:00 AM

Not sure what polyseamseal is, but if its urethane, it is food for mold. Silicone is not. Go color matched silicone.

Lightfoot 01-16-2013 11:27 AM

I like the polyseamseal better.
To me, it's easier applied, easier to work with, easier cleanup (water soluble till cured), and i've had some down now that's been good for five years +, with no problems with mold/mildew at all. Curing time is 24 hours and you cannot rush it. The thing i like best about it is when i get done, i wash my hands with soap and water and it comes off. Try that with silicone. As you can see from other posters, silicone has it's admirers too, so i guess it's a matter of opinion.
That's mine.

Rav 01-16-2013 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1094846)
Not sure what polyseamseal is, but if its urethane, it is food for mold. Silicone is not. Go color matched silicone.

According to Loctite (who makes it), it's a water-based adhesive caulk which contains extra mildewcide. I've seen references that say it's a PVA (polyvinyl acetate) caulk. Thanks for your recommendation.

Rav 01-16-2013 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyT (Post 1094830)
i'd go with the silicone. if the surface is cleaned properly the silicone will last a lot longer.

Thanks, Danny. When I used silicone caulk in a different application a few weeks ago, I scraped away all the old caulk, cleaned the surrounding tile with rubbing alcohol, used 80 grit sandpaper to remove anything remaining and rough up the surface, then cleaned again with acetone. Is there anything else you would recommend doing to clean properly? Thanks.

oh'mike 01-16-2013 11:45 AM

Your clean up sounds good---

Applying silicone neatly can be a challenge--- This is the method that counter top and tilers use to get a perfect bead---

Remember this---silicone will stick to any clean--dry surface.

It will not stick to a wet soapy surface---

For this you need paper towels and a spray bottle of 'Greased Lightning' household cleaner.

Start low and work your way up so no spray wets any area yet to be done.

1. Apply a bead of silicone --do not leave any gaps or air pockets--
2. Spray the bead and surrounding area with Greased Lightning
3. Spray your finger
4.Tool the joint with your finger
5.remove excess to the paper towel

Do an experimental test----I believe you will like this technique.

Rav 01-16-2013 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1094884)
Your clean up sounds good---

Applying silicone neatly can be a challenge--- This is the method that counter top and tilers use to get a perfect bead---

Remember this---silicone will stick to any clean--dry surface.

It will not stick to a wet soapy surface---

For this you need paper towels and a spray bottle of 'Greased Lightning' household cleaner.

Start low and work your way up so no spray wets any area yet to be done.

1. Apply a bead of silicone --do not leave any gaps or air pockets--
2. Spray the bead and surrounding area with Greased Lightning
3. Spray your finger
4.Tool the joint with your finger
5.remove excess to the paper towel

Do an experimental test----I believe you will like this technique.

Thanks for the advice, oh'mike. Sorry, I should have previously mentioned, when I did some silicone caulking a few weeks ago I used a product called GE Caulk Smoother. It made working with (and cleaning up) the silicone much easier. I assume that product is similar to what you recommended?

oh'mike 01-16-2013 12:35 PM

I never heard of that----20 years ago I complained to an old tile setter that silicone was a mess to work with.

He showed me how the pros did it----


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