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-   -   Plumbers, please critique this arrangement (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/plumbers-please-critique-arrangement-158328/)

Arky217 09-29-2012 12:11 AM

Plumbers, please critique this arrangement
 
This is my initial proposed DWV arrangement for my retirement house that I built.

The house is in a remote area that is not governed by plumbing codes, however, I want to make sure that I'm not about to make any major mistakes that would prevent the draining and venting from working properly.

The sketch shows a 4" main line, however, after reading many pros and cons of a 3" line vs a 4" line, I'm still not sure which size to go with.

The sketch is pretty much to scale. It's on a post and pier foundation with an open 3 foot
crawl space, hence the trap on the tub being above the floor to prevent freezing.

All the piping to be PVC; I was thinking of schedule 20 for the vents, 40 for the drains.
And, of course, all the elbows, tees, etc. will be standard plumbing fixtures, not with the sharp angles as shown in the sketch.

( I would have shown a 3" stack vent, however, the 6" wall happened to fall right under a truss at the top and right over a joist at the bottom, leaving slightly less room than needed for a 3" pipe. )

Appreciate any suggestions that point out any errors in this arrangement that would give me problems.

Thanks,
Arky




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TheEplumber 09-29-2012 12:45 AM

A good start. Here's some comments and questions
What is the fixture at the left side?
Why is your building drain in the ground instead of the crawl? Easier to hang it from joists
It gets cold in my area but seldom do traps freeze when concealed in insulation.
The lav needs a p trap- you show a 2" under the fixture- should be in the wall and can be 1.5"
I'd run 3" building drain
Is the side wall vent because you don't want to penetrate the roof?
Put your clean outs in walls for easy access.
Vents should be sch 40 as well
Some of these comments are personal opinions based on my regional experience so I'm sure you'll get some differing thoughts.

Arky217 09-29-2012 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 1019724)
A good start. Here's some comments and questions
What is the fixture at the left side?
The kitchen sink.

Why is your building drain in the ground instead of the crawl? Easier to hang it from joists
Actually, it will be in the crawl until it reaches the edge of the building.

It gets cold in my area but seldom do traps freeze when concealed in insulation.
The floor joists are 8" and will be insulated with Roxul; I guess I could let the trap reside within the joist space.

The lav needs a p trap- you show a 2" under the fixture- should be in the wall and can be 1.5"
The small squiggly line is the p trap; yes, I guess I could go horizonal into the wall then down with the drain, however, as is, the pipe would still be hidden within the cabinet under the sink.

I'd run 3" building drain
Yes, I was leaning toward 3"; what would be the main reason rather than 4" ?

Is the side wall vent because you don't want to penetrate the roof?
Yes; the roof is standing seam metal and I'd rather not penetrate it.

Put your clean outs in walls for easy access.
Not sure what you mean by this. I have the main line and the long run from the kitchen sink cleanouts in the crawl; do I need cleanouts for the two short horizonal runs on the sinks ?

Vents should be sch 40 as well
Why wouldn't schedule 20 work for vents ?

Some of these comments are personal opinions based on my regional experience so I'm sure you'll get some differing thoughts.

Thank you for your comments,
Arky

ddawg16 09-29-2012 11:51 AM

Bet you wouldn't get that kind of feedback or advice at HD or Lowes.........

We are lucky that we have Eplumber and a few other qualified guys here giving good advice.

TheEplumber 09-29-2012 12:55 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This image shows a proper way to plumb a sink. Notice the vertical pipe in the wall. It can be your 2" toilet vent- the lav will connect to it. This is called vertical wet venting.

I prefer 3"- It more then meets code for your fixture load, and 3" pipe and fittings are cheaper than 4". 4" is over kill.

Your vent really needs to go through the roof.

As for the clean outs. My code states no further then 20' from crawl access. Do you really want to lug a drain machine into your crawl? When you penetrate the floor for the kitchen sink, put a clean out right below the p trap

sch. 20 is not code.

AllanJ 09-29-2012 01:02 PM

Do not have insulation between a pipe and the living space. For batt insulation in the walls, either put the entire batt behind the pipe or cut out a V shaped notch following the pipe, as wide as the pipe is deep. Traps under the floor in the crawl space should be boxed around.

SeniorSitizen 09-29-2012 02:21 PM

ARKY217 QUOTE: elbows, tees, etc. will be standard [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue ! important]plumbing [COLOR=blue ! important]fixtures[/color][/color][/color], not with the sharp angles as shown in the sketch.

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You or someone at a later time will thank you for installing long sweep ells. :thumbup:


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