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Old 06-21-2010, 10:54 AM   #16
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I have another question about water pressure so if I go thorugh my crawl space which I think I will, I'll be coming from the utility room and then DOWN about 3ft into the crawl space where it will be a straight run for about 20feet or so finally popping out on the side of my house.

I'm assuming its best to angle the sill cock so that it's on a slight downward slant? -

- any reasons to think that water pressure will not be good? I guess as long as there are no leaks the water will come out ?
A "Legend Frost Free" hose bibb will have both a 1/2" FIP inside or 3/4" MIP outside connection. For more volume of course you will use 3/4" PEX. There's a difference however with volume and pressure. Your pressure should be consistent throughout the house and won't change. Yes, should be a slight downward slant. Because you're making such a long run and you mentioned using SharkBite fittings, buy your PEX in 20' sticks. Again, the fewer the fittings the better. Fasten it about every 18 inches.

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Old 06-21-2010, 11:47 AM   #17
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A "Legend Frost Free" hose bibb will have both a 1/2" FIP inside or 3/4" MIP outside connection. For more volume of course you will use 3/4" PEX. There's a difference however with volume and pressure. Your pressure should be consistent throughout the house and won't change. Yes, should be a slight downward slant. Because you're making such a long run and you mentioned using SharkBite fittings, buy your PEX in 20' sticks. Again, the fewer the fittings the better. Fasten it about every 18 inches.
I'm going to actually be using CPVC as most of the downstairs already has CPVC and you don't really need special tools. So seems like the best bet for me....

Whats FIP / MIP? --


What size CPVC do you recommend? and what type of clamps.

Can you link to any good hose bibs?
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:55 PM   #18
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I'm going to actually be using CPVC as most of the downstairs already has CPVC and you don't really need special tools. So seems like the best bet for me....

Whats FIP / MIP? --


What size CPVC do you recommend? and what type of clamps.

Can you link to any good hose bibs?
That's fine, I still think PEX is superior to PVC or CPVC.
Legend Frost Free http://www.superiorspecialty.com/Mai...owPressure.htm. The top one on this page is what you'll be looking for. I don't know where you're located. FYI - I don't know anything about this company or website. I did find them ranging in price from 18-30 bucks when I Googled. The model T-552 has both MIP/FIP connection as well as an anti-siphon. (recommended and probably code)

MIP = Male Iron Pipe thread
FIP = Female Iron Pipe thread

I would just stick with the size you're connecting to. That way you don't have to worry about reducing fittings, etc.

If you have 1/2" pipe you'll need a 1/2" MIP to thread "into" your Legend valve. (be sure to get one with brass threads not plastic)

If you have 3/4" pipe you'll need a 3/4" FIP to thread "over the end" of your Legend valve

Make sure you get the right kind of glue for CPVC. Not the same as PVC cement. It will be yellow or orange in color. Read the can.

As far as hangers go, it will depend on whether you're running parallel to your joists or through your joists. Several different styles in cheap plastic hangers.
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:52 PM   #19
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Thanks - I mean I guess there's nothing really stopping me from going with PEX, as long as I don't need any special tools -as the sharkbite's do work with PEX.

Whats the difference from the first one on that page and the rest?
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:07 PM   #20
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Thanks - I mean I guess there's nothing really stopping me from going with PEX, as long as I don't need any special tools -as the sharkbite's do work with PEX.

Whats the difference from the first one on that page and the rest?
In that case, I would use PEX. You'll save yourself a bunch of time, mess, etc. You can cut it with a good pair of pruning shears like you'd use for pruning trees which you may already have. Otherwise cheap red plastic pipe cutters you can prob get for a few bucks at box store.

The top 2 on that page are the only ones that are frost free. Only difference in the two I think is the anti-siphon on the 552
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:50 PM   #21
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By the way, it is very important to make sure that all of the water is out of the frost-free faucet before winter or it will burst. The downward angle ensures that it will drain thoroughly when the hose is removed...

Just do not forget to remove the hose... set a reminder... mark the calendar... call Dick Clark for the countdown... whatever it takes! I learned my lesson with that right quick!

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Old 06-22-2010, 12:39 PM   #22
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I'm going to purchase one of these sillcock's (just not sure which size yet).

http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=152297

So I won't need any special tools to work with PEX since I'll be using the sharkbits? besides something to cut it with?

I hear ya on the downward angle, but what if I can't get a downward angle on parts of the pipe that run through the crawlspace? - how do I ensure that water is not sitting in the pipe?
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:58 PM   #23
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Just get it as straight and tight as possible. No bellies in it. Use hangers about every 18".

Right, no special tools for SharkBites. Just need something to cut your pipe.

Longer the better on the frost free unless you don't have room to work with inside.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:36 PM   #24
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I'll be running it parallel to the floor joists in the crawl space which is a good thing.... so I don't have too much room but whether the pipe is shorter or longer it won't really matter as I'll still have the same amount of space vertically, so I might as well go with the 14''.

Dont you think the problem with PEX is that its a bit too flexible allowing for some small bellies.
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Old 06-22-2010, 03:07 PM   #25
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I'll be running it parallel to the floor joists in the crawl space which is a good thing.... so I don't have too much room but whether the pipe is shorter or longer it won't really matter as I'll still have the same amount of space vertically, so I might as well go with the 14''.

Dont you think the problem with PEX is that its a bit too flexible allowing for some small bellies.
Since you're running parallel to the floor joists that will make it easy to give a little grade if you're worried about it. Maybe an 1/8" per foot or so. Just start high where you drop down from the utility room. I don't think you'll have any problems. A few drops of water sitting in the pipe won't hurt. PEX puts up really well with expansion and contraction. If it's not full of water (like if it were to have a large belly) it won't freeze anyway. If you want added protection install a ball valve where it's accessible and you can shut it off in the winter and drain it from outside.
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Old 06-22-2010, 03:30 PM   #26
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Since you're running parallel to the floor joists that will make it easy to give a little grade if you're worried about it. Maybe an 1/8" per foot or so. Just start high where you drop down from the utility room. I don't think you'll have any problems. A few drops of water sitting in the pipe won't hurt. PEX puts up really well with expansion and contraction. If it's not full of water (like if it were to have a large belly) it won't freeze anyway. If you want added protection install a ball valve where it's accessible and you can shut it off in the winter and drain it from outside.
yeah. my plan is to install a ball valve in the utility room somewhere off the cold water T but I'm a little worried if I shut to off there an then close open the outside faucet that most of the water will drain but slightly worried about any water that might be left inside the pipe....

Do they make a foam insulation, pipe wrap tube (what ever you call it) for PEX?
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:29 PM   #27
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Yeah it's the same as you would use for any other kind of pipe. Just split foam insulation. (Kinda like what you see on bicycle handle bars so you don't knock your teeth out). You can buy it in different lengths in the plumbing section at the box stores. Probably up to 10' lengths or so for 1/2" or 3/4" pipe (whatever you're using).
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:55 PM   #28
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hmm just realized that the sillcock I have linked to above is a 1/2'' I'm thinking it might be better to go with a 3/4? as it allows me to attach a larger hose?

Or maybe I'm looking at it wrong but a hose listed as 1/2 by 50ft means that the connection on the end is 1/2 or that the hose diamater is 1/2? I think its the latter but just want to make sure I'll be good with a 1/2'' sillcock and still be able to attach a 3/4'' hose.

http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=155490
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:20 PM   #29
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Any hose will fit the standard garden hose thread. The 1/2" refers to the iron pipe thread on the other end that you'll be connecting your new piping to.
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:22 PM   #30
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I've purchased and recieved this sillcock here: http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=152297

I'm giong to the store to buy supplies toight and want to make sure I get everything right.

I'm giong to be going with PEX and I know its much more flexable but just how flexable I dunno... as in do I need to have an elbow (90 degree) piece for when I drop down from my ulitity room and into the crawl space or will the pex just be able to bend?

Also - since I think PEX comes in many different lengths I would imagine that I want to have the least amounts of cuts and joins in the PEX as I can, correct?

Finally I have a question about the best way to go about hooking up to the cold waterline comming off my hot water heater... (picures below)

The cold water is the pipe on the right --- Where is it best to T off from? Is it OK to have a double T where there currently is a T now? will that have any adverse affects on water flow to the rest of the cold water in the house?

Also assuming that I'll be going with 1/2 PEX as my sillcock is 1/2
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