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Old 05-30-2010, 04:35 PM   #1
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Outside water


I live in a split level home and the 'downstairs' of my split level is fishished. One issue that I've come to notice is that I do not have any outside water faucets.

Giving that my downstairs is finished (except for the HVAC/Water ultitly room) I do not want to go ripping down drywall. BUT I think I may have a soultion.

The joists run horizontal ie front of th yard to the back. The only thing seperating the untilty room (which has the water heater is a walk in pantry. Thats probably about 7 feet so lets say 8.5 feet from my water heater to the outside of my house.

Since the joises are running in the same way is it possible for me to drill a hole oun the outside of my house and feed a pipe from the outside in? and then hook up somewhere with the water heater lines?

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Old 05-30-2010, 06:04 PM   #2
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You can also use PEX which will give you a little flexability.

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Old 06-06-2010, 10:37 AM   #3
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Outside water


ok took some pics of what I'm dealing with here.... I'm hoping to run 7 feet of pipe or so from the outside and have it pop into the floor/celing joist in the pics below. do you think this will be OK as I won't have a way to secure the pipe to anything for this 7 feet of so run?

secondly what do I do with it once I get it into the utility room? there's clearly some duct in between where the pipe is going to come out and the cold line running to the water heater...

I'm sure I'll have more questions but lets start with these for now....
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Outside water-img00004-20100606-1124.jpg   Outside water-img00005-20100606-1124.jpg   Outside water-img00006-20100606-1125.jpg   Outside water-img00007-20100606-1125.jpg  
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:48 AM   #4
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Using PEX will definitely give you flexibility. You can twist and bend it anywhere you need to go. Additionally, bury hydrants in the yard would be another option you may consider.
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You can also use PEX which will give you a little flexability.
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:30 PM   #5
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Using PEX for an 8ft run with no support is that OK? -
How does it tie into the current copper?
It doesn't matter? up down left right etc? I suppose the water will just flow to the outlet.
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:05 AM   #6
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Outside water


You're right, PEX hangs like spaghetti for the most part. However one or two supports will be plenty for what you're looking to accomplish in an 8' run. As far as making the transition from copper to PEX, you'll use a sweat to PEX adapter (barbed on one side and sweat on the other). As far as direction, you're right there also. Doesn't matter. I'm guessing you'll use a "T" in the copper with a "street" copper to PEX adapter. If you've never used PEX, you'll also need a special crimping tool. (can be fairly expensive, but you may look into renting or borrowing one). Then I would suggest a 1/4 turn Legend Frost Free hose bibb for your outside water. They come in different lengths, i.e. 8"-12" depending on your application. The threaded end of the hose bibb will be dual 1/2" FIP or 3/4" MIP for making a transition to your existing piping. Thus in addition to any other elbows and the sweat connections I mentioned earlier, you'll also need a 1/2" MIP or 3/4" FIP adapter. (You may want to base this on the size of drill bit/hole-hog you have for drilling through the exterior wall or rim joist.) because a 3/4" FIP will be substantially larger than the other. Hope this helps.

I just re-read your original post and had another thought. Don't you have something closer, i.e. laundry tub or lavatory sink closer to an exterior wall without HVAC, etc. in the way?
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Old 06-07-2010, 08:47 AM   #7
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Unfortunately I don't have another place that's accessible as everything except for this room is finished. -

I won't be able to put any supports except for one where the drywall is broken up in the utility room - do you think that will be OK or given that would I be better off using something more sturdy?
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:07 AM   #8
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Yeah I think that will work fine, but not being able to see it hands on is a bit difficult. You'll just want to make sure your pex is plenty far enough away from your B-vent on the heater. I think code is: can't have it within 18". But you'll want to check your local code.
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Unfortunately I don't have another place that's accessible as everything except for this room is finished. -

I won't be able to put any supports except for one where the drywall is broken up in the utility room - do you think that will be OK or given that would I be better off using something more sturdy?
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:11 PM   #9
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Not sure what the B-Vent is?

Was at Home Depot today just picking up some odds and end for another project. I swung by the plumbing section and saw something called SharkBite fittings.... http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/

Seems like a great way to for me as I dont' really want to deal with soldering or special tools for PEX - is it possible to use something like this in my setup?

Anyone have any experience with Shark Bite?
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb582 View Post
Not sure what the B-Vent is?

Was at Home Depot today just picking up some odds and end for another project. I swung by the plumbing section and saw something called SharkBite fittings.... http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/

Seems like a great way to for me as I dont' really want to deal with soldering or special tools for PEX - is it possible to use something like this in my setup?

Anyone have any experience with Shark Bite?
B-Vent is the galvanized vent connected to the top center of your water heater. When the tank is heating, they become super hot!

Shark bites work just fine. Fairly expensive, but will get you by in a pinch. Especially if water won't stop dripping and you're not great at soldering.

PS - You may be able to find the SharkBite fittings cheaper at local wholesale supply house instead of the Depot. Also, the fewer the fittings the better.

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Old 06-18-2010, 08:21 PM   #11
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another option that I didn't think was a possiblity but can one run a pipe through an un-insulated crawlspace? what would keep it from freezing in the winter?
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Old 06-19-2010, 10:22 AM   #12
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another option that I didn't think was a possiblity but can one run a pipe through an un-insulated crawlspace? what would keep it from freezing in the winter?
You can but need to take some preventative steps to make sure it doesn't freeze. Use split foam insulation around the pipe along with heat tape. Be sure to close your vents in the winter and open them in the summer.
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Old 06-19-2010, 11:44 AM   #13
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closing the vents is a no go - as they are currently completely open.
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:54 PM   #14
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Yeah just need to be closed in freezing weather
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:34 AM   #15
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Outside water


I have another question about water pressure so if I go thorugh my crawl space which I think I will, I'll be coming from the utility room and then DOWN about 3ft into the crawl space where it will be a straight run for about 20feet or so finally popping out on the side of my house.

I'm assuming its best to angle the sill cock so that it's on a slight downward slant? -

- any reasons to think that water pressure will not be good? I guess as long as there are no leaks the water will come out ?

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