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Old 03-08-2013, 02:36 PM   #1
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Outdoor Shower


After several years of hosing off kids and animals, I have decided to install an outdoor shower. I have the perfect place for it, and have a plan for the runoff (garden). I now need some hot water to it, and would welcome suggestions for getting hot water to the faucet.

My water heater is in the attic, and a hot water line is accessible. My plan is to pull off that line, and run pex through about 20 feet of attic space and then out a soffit that is directly next to a privacy fence. The line will hardly be visible at the soffit. The cold water is very close at the spigot for the hose.

I know that you are not supposed to run a line in the attic if you are in an area that could freeze (we are southern region, but may freeze from time to time). To address, I plan on putting a ball valve where the "T" is off the hot water line, and then run air through it at the end of the year (same time as the irrigation system).

It sounds pretty straightforward - a "T" in the line, a ball valve, PEX through the attic, and then down to the shower unit. Am I missing anything here? If this is an acceptable solution, is there an easier way to blow the line at the end of the year? Or is my only option going to be to detach after the ball valve and run my compressor through it?

Thanks in advance!

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Old 03-08-2013, 02:41 PM   #2
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Outdoor Shower


Find a how water line near the outside faucet and put a freeze proof faucet next to it. So one faucet hot and one faucet is cold.

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Old 03-08-2013, 02:42 PM   #3
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Outdoor Shower


Can you run your line at an angle and let gravity empty the line at the end of season? What size line are you going to use?
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:48 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by paintdrying View Post
Find a how water line near the outside faucet and put a freeze proof faucet next to it. So one faucet hot and one faucet is cold.
I wish I could, but where i am putting the shower, the closest hot water line is right around the water heater.

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Can you run your line at an angle and let gravity empty the line at the end of season? What size line are you going to use?
I think I could probably run it at an angle, but would be concerned with a droop, or whatnot. If I can figure out a simple way to run my compressor through it, it wouldn't be an issue. I plan on running 1/2, but am open to suggestions.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:57 PM   #5
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Your original plan will require 2 valves. 1to isolate the line. 1 more downstream to blow through. Also- don't use exposed pex outdoors- UV sensitive

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Old 03-08-2013, 04:06 PM   #6
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Your original plan will require 2 valves. 1to isolate the line. 1 more downstream to blow through. Also- don't use exposed pex outdoors- UV sensitive
Thanks for the note on uv sensitive pex.

What kind of valve is this second one that will allow me to blow air through?
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by l11hill View Post
Thanks for the note on uv sensitive pex.

What kind of valve is this second one that will allow me to blow air through?
Both can be ball valves the winterizing valve will have your quick connect coupler- like on air tools.
Have you looked into the commercial outdoor showers?
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:43 PM   #8
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Both can be ball valves the winterizing valve will have your quick connect coupler- like on air tools.
Have you looked into the commercial outdoor showers?
If there is a ball valve that would let me shut off the water, and then blow air through it (after the valve of course), it would be perfect. Then, I would only need one valve. Is such a thing made?

As for a commercial outdoor shower, I have looked into, but don't like the costs versus what I could make one for.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:10 PM   #9
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Outdoor Shower


Only need one freeze proof faucet like this.
They come both vertical and horizontal.
One like in the picture can be run down an inside wall.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...lectedIndex=12
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:16 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by l11hill View Post
If there is a ball valve that would let me shut off the water, and then blow air through it (after the valve of course), it would be perfect. Then, I would only need one valve. Is such a thing made?

As for a commercial outdoor shower, I have looked into, but don't like the costs versus what I could make one for.
The reason I suggested the commercial units is because you really should have a backflow device on the lines. I assuming the showers do
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:48 PM   #11
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The one I posted come with it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:41 PM   #12
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Outdoor Shower


We have an outdoor shower up north with one silcock on the back of the barn. There is a manafold that I put together with a hot and cold valve with one mixing valve. The water temp is set to warm and a house runs to the shower stall. 4 4"x4" sheeting 2"x6" deck. Two hinges for the door, and yes we use it in the winter, just dran the hose when done.

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