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Old 06-17-2011, 03:54 PM   #16
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


Thanks again guys.

I went ahead and called my local lowes/hd, both do not carry a two needle pressure gauge. I'd get the two needle one from that other site you linked but their shipping rate is 9$. I guess I'll just purchase the single needle that you linked from Amazon. I can get it for $7.26, free 2 day shipping.

I'll give you an update after I test pressure sometime next week.

EDIT: Scratch that, I'm just going to pay the extra $9 to do test it right.


Last edited by ANGRYKOREAN; 06-17-2011 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 06-17-2011, 04:31 PM   #17
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


I got this Watts gauge at either HD or Lowes:
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...ls.asp?pid=647

They have em at my local HD:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1&ddkey=Search

But it didn't look like that, it looks like this:
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...ls.asp?pid=647

Last edited by bob22; 06-17-2011 at 04:35 PM. Reason: Clarifications
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:36 PM   #18
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


Giving you guys an update.

HRG - water pressure gauge read 90 lbs. Shall I proceed to replacing the pressure regulator and ball valve?
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:30 PM   #19
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ANGRYKOREAN View Post
Giving you guys an update.

HRG - water pressure gauge read 90 lbs. Shall I proceed to replacing the pressure regulator and ball valve?
You could try adjusting your existing PR but considering that it's about 35+ years old, I would definitely just replace it without even trying to adjust it. I bought a Watts brand PR for our home. It looks like the one that you currently have (except mine has a union coupling on its input side) so yours might be a Watts PR. The new PR should be adjusted for 50-60 psi output.

If you replace the PR, I would also replace the ball valve since they are relatively inexpensive and I guarantee that you will feel much better after the job is done. There are two types of ball valves. One type is soldered in on both sides, the other type is threaded on both sides. I personally buy the threaded type since I don't want to overheat the ball valve during the soldering process. In the threaded type, the male fittings are soldered on to the copper pipes first and then the ball valve is screwed on. --- But in your case, you may have to install a soldered in type of ball valve due to minimal space from the ground to the horizontal pipe.

I would remove the white pressure relief valve that is installed right next to the wall. Your water heater should have a pressure relief valve on it so that one in your photo is not really needed. By removing that pressure relief valve, you can install a union coupler in its place. Then make sure that the pressure regulator you buy has a union coupling on its input side (the side connected to the ball valve). This will allow you to remove the pressure regulator and hose bib assembly in case you ever have to replace the PR in the future. Otherwise you will have to have enough clearance to the wall to spin the PR to remove it in the future.

Be sure to measure the diameter of your existing pipes before you go shopping so you can buy the correct size PR, ball valve, copper pipe, fittings, etc. Don't try to reuse your old pipes or fittings. It's just too much work with more chances of leaking. Don't forget to measure the distance from the ground to the horizontal pipe so you can buy a PR and ball valve that can fit in that limited space.

HRG

Last edited by Homerepairguy; 06-20-2011 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:06 PM   #20
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


Don't like the Watts 25-AUB P.R.V.

We have had the top of the housing rot away in 1 year. It's just a crappy pot metal coated with brass colored paint.

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Old 07-05-2011, 05:11 AM   #21
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


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I would remove the white pressure relief valve that is installed right next to the wall. Your water heater should have a pressure relief valve on it so that one in your photo is not really needed. By removing that pressure relief valve, you can install a union coupler in its place. ...snip
Angry,

In another thread, the poster said that his plumber told him that it's code in his area to install a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the pressure relief valve on top on the water heater. If your area has the same code, then don't remove the pressure relief valve shown in your photo, or do replace it with a new one.

It's not code in my area to have a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the one on top of the water heater.

HRG
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:38 AM   #22
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


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Originally Posted by Homerepairguy View Post
Angry,

In another thread, the poster said that his plumber told him that it's code in his area to install a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the pressure relief valve on top on the water heater. If your area has the same code, then don't remove the pressure relief valve shown in your photo, or do replace it with a new one.

It's not code in my area to have a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the one on top of the water heater.

HRG
HRG, you are correct about local code.

Sorry for my absence, I have just gotten around to planning this project. So per your post, I have decided to replace the PRV, ball valve and piping. I had some questions though. Bare in mind, I have no plumbing experience so if this is a job for a professional please stop me.

-What kind of piping do I have right now? Brass or copper? If I replace with copper piping and it's currently brass piping will that matter?
-If copper piping, what type of tubing am I looking to get? Hard type L?
-Besides the piping, PR and ball valve, what are the names of the other parts I'll need? I.e. fittings. I don't know the terminology or names of these parts
-What tools would I need going into the project? Blow torch? Solder? Pipe cutter? Teflon tape?
-How exactly do I uninstall the current piping?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:13 AM   #23
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


Your piping is copper, but your pressure regulator and pressure relief valve are threaded on, and the pressure regulator has a union. The only problem will be if your pressure regulator is shorter or longer than the original one, and the ball valve looks like it is sweated on.

Unthread the pressure relief valve from the system. Thread the new one in.

Take the union on the pressure regulator completely apart.

Unthread the pressure regulator and it's union end from the system. Take a measurement of both pressure regulators if they are the same, put it back the same way it came off using teflon tape of course. . . .

If you still want to change that ball valve out, you'll have to get all the water out of the line, and heat it and pull on it with a pair of pliers until it comes off. If you've never soldered before, it might be tricky to get the new one back on.
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:43 PM   #24
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Outdoor faucet won't turn off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ANGRYKOREAN View Post
HRG, you are correct about local code.

Sorry for my absence, I have just gotten around to planning this project. So per your post, I have decided to replace the PRV, ball valve and piping. I had some questions though. Bare in mind, I have no plumbing experience so if this is a job for a professional please stop me.

-What kind of piping do I have right now? Brass or copper? If I replace with copper piping and it's currently brass piping will that matter?
-If copper piping, what type of tubing am I looking to get? Hard type L?
-Besides the piping, PR and ball valve, what are the names of the other parts I'll need? I.e. fittings. I don't know the terminology or names of these parts
-What tools would I need going into the project? Blow torch? Solder? Pipe cutter? Teflon tape?
-How exactly do I uninstall the current piping?

Thanks in advance.
Alan pretty much hit all of the high points. Here are more things to consider:

1. If you turn the ball valve off and open the hose bib faucet and the highest faucet in your home, does all dripping stop after you wait about 5 minutes? If yes, the ball valve is stopping all water flow. You could leave it in. (Though if I were doing the job I would replace it since it's already 35+ years old and I wouldn't want to replace it later.)

2. Will there be enough room to unscrew the pressure regulator by spinning it in place? The bottom input side has a union coupling (allows removal without spinning the PR) but the top side requires that the PR be rotated to unscrew it off. It's hard to tell from your photos if there is enough clearance to the wall to spin the PR. --- Also, even if there is enough room to spin the PR, since there isn't any play in the piping and there isn't a second union coupling where the pressure relief valve is, I don't see how you will be able to remove the PR. As you unscrew the PR, it will want to move toward the ball valve but that side is unmovable as is the piping above the PR.

3. If you want to replace the ball valve you will have to turn the water from the city off. Do you know where the valve is where the water enters your property? If yes, turn that valve off and open the hose bib faucet in your photos and the highest faucet in your home (leave the ball valve open). Does all dripping stop after you wait about 5 minutes? --- If no, then you won't be able to solder a new ball valve in without special techniques. It's not possible to solder a ball valve in with water leaking out of the pipe. In this case with no plumbing experience, it will be better to hire a plumber.

HRG


Last edited by Homerepairguy; 07-11-2011 at 02:48 PM.
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