DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Outdoor faucet won't turn off.

48K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  Homerepairguy 
#1 ·


Faucet with the green hose attachment won't stop leaking water.



I tried tightening the philips screw head.



It has a shut off valve but the valve shuts off the water to all the faucets outside.

How should I go about fixing this?
 
See less See more
3
#4 ·
Turn off water.

Relieve Pressure.

Unthread bonnet nut (just below the handle)

Unscrew the handle assembly and pull it out.

Check the washer at the bottom, probably ripped, cracked or just plain worn out.

Remove stainless screw holding washer to the handle assembly.

Remove bibb washer.

Take it to the store, match it with the proper size ($.35)

Return home, and reverse steps

Save 4 bucks.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all the help guys. Giving you guys an update now.

I bought the replacement hose bibb and thread tape. I turned off the red valve that you see in the first picture and took off the old hose bibb and replaced it with the new hose bibb. I 'think' it solved the leak. It stopped the majority of the leaking water, if not all.

One thing I noticed when I took the hose bibb off, even with the red valve shut off, some water was still flowing out. Is this normal? Or does that mean my problem goes a little bit further than just the hose bibb.
 
#8 ·
One thing I noticed when I took the hose bibb off, even with the red valve shut off, some water was still flowing out. Is this normal? Or does that mean my problem goes a little bit further than just the hose bibb.
Probably water in the house plumbing draining out. Turn the red valve off, open the hose bib. Then open the highest hot and cold faucets in the house to let the house plumbing drain out. The water should eventually stop leaking out of the new hose bib. If not, then the red valve (ball valve) is leaking and should be replaced.

HRG
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thanks again guys.

I went ahead and called my local lowes/hd, both do not carry a two needle pressure gauge. I'd get the two needle one from that other site you linked but their shipping rate is 9$. I guess I'll just purchase the single needle that you linked from Amazon. I can get it for $7.26, free 2 day shipping.

I'll give you an update after I test pressure sometime next week.

EDIT: Scratch that, I'm just going to pay the extra $9 to do test it right.
 
#19 · (Edited)
You could try adjusting your existing PR but considering that it's about 35+ years old, I would definitely just replace it without even trying to adjust it. I bought a Watts brand PR for our home. It looks like the one that you currently have (except mine has a union coupling on its input side) so yours might be a Watts PR. The new PR should be adjusted for 50-60 psi output.

If you replace the PR, I would also replace the ball valve since they are relatively inexpensive and I guarantee that you will feel much better after the job is done. There are two types of ball valves. One type is soldered in on both sides, the other type is threaded on both sides. I personally buy the threaded type since I don't want to overheat the ball valve during the soldering process. In the threaded type, the male fittings are soldered on to the copper pipes first and then the ball valve is screwed on. --- But in your case, you may have to install a soldered in type of ball valve due to minimal space from the ground to the horizontal pipe.

I would remove the white pressure relief valve that is installed right next to the wall. Your water heater should have a pressure relief valve on it so that one in your photo is not really needed. By removing that pressure relief valve, you can install a union coupler in its place. Then make sure that the pressure regulator you buy has a union coupling on its input side (the side connected to the ball valve). This will allow you to remove the pressure regulator and hose bib assembly in case you ever have to replace the PR in the future. Otherwise you will have to have enough clearance to the wall to spin the PR to remove it in the future.

Be sure to measure the diameter of your existing pipes before you go shopping so you can buy the correct size PR, ball valve, copper pipe, fittings, etc. Don't try to reuse your old pipes or fittings. It's just too much work with more chances of leaking. Don't forget to measure the distance from the ground to the horizontal pipe so you can buy a PR and ball valve that can fit in that limited space.

HRG
 
#23 ·
Your piping is copper, but your pressure regulator and pressure relief valve are threaded on, and the pressure regulator has a union. The only problem will be if your pressure regulator is shorter or longer than the original one, and the ball valve looks like it is sweated on.

Unthread the pressure relief valve from the system. Thread the new one in.

Take the union on the pressure regulator completely apart.

Unthread the pressure regulator and it's union end from the system. Take a measurement of both pressure regulators if they are the same, put it back the same way it came off using teflon tape of course. . . .

If you still want to change that ball valve out, you'll have to get all the water out of the line, and heat it and pull on it with a pair of pliers until it comes off. If you've never soldered before, it might be tricky to get the new one back on.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top