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Old 06-22-2009, 01:06 PM   #1
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


No answer to previous post, so I'm resigned to the jack-hammer approach.
Here's some history: early 1980's home with crummily done, (probably home-owner done) below grade shower. I've torn out the rotting walls, the moldy framing and roto-hammered out the old, almost completely un-sloped mortar bed. The existing cast metal drain is unfortunately not compatible with the common 2 piece PVC tile drains, and there appears to be no other soluton than jack hammering out the slab in order to replace with PVC.

Here's what I've got.

Like a closer look?

Not sure what I'll find but I think the outer ring is just a pipe used to support the drain while the slab was being poured.
  • Where should I start?
  • What should I do when I get there?
Is it as simple as cutting the iron pipe just below the slab and connecting PVC with a rubber sleeve and clamps?
Help is appreciated!

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Old 06-22-2009, 03:43 PM   #2
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


I'm in a very similar situation. The old shower just had tile directly on the cement, 1959 brick ranch and 2" cast iron drain.. I assume it was owner done in the 70's or so. The cast iron drain is level with the basement slab. I just got a kohler shower pan and was thinking about making a sleeve insert and then just sealing it up with silicone, but I think the better way is to hammer drill down 6 or 8 inches and connect it up properly with a rubber boot and then back fill in the cement.. Not sure what the best way is yet though... The basement bathroom had a ceiling fan and no outlet and the subfloor was cooked above it so I already did the bathroom upstairs and did all new subfloor etc.. Cut through the brick to vent the downstairs bathrrom and just need to figure out the right drain method.. Is it best to hammerdrill all the way in and replace P-trap and all or just go down a bit and hook up the pvc to the drain and call it done?

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Old 06-22-2009, 04:10 PM   #3
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


Other than doing the unquestionably right thing (and unfortunately also the most involved thing) of busting up the floor and putting in a new trap and re-pouring the floor, I don't know what else either of you can do. But then again, I'm not a seasoned plumbing professional, and maybe there is some adapter made specifically for your situations. But if a plumbing supply house doesn't know what to do, I'd say just bust it up and start fresh.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:32 PM   #4
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


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Originally Posted by StevenW View Post
I...was thinking about making a sleeve insert and then just sealing it up with silicone...
Sure seems like somebody would have come up with a solution (like a sleeved insert type of solution) to this seemingly common problem. My expertise is in other areas so I'll have to pass this buck.


Addendum: Reading it again, I realize it sounded like I meant "somebody" from this forum...My bad.

Last edited by mgray87; 06-22-2009 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:49 PM   #5
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


Well I guess the answer is to dig down 8 inches or so and do the old rubber boot connector and fill it back in with cement. I didn't want to, but it'll get done faster that way than by putzin around looking for answers.. My only concern is that I dig down 8 inches and my 50 year old cast iron pipe disintegrates meaning I have to dig further in and so on and so forth..
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:28 AM   #6
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


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I'd say just bust it up and start fresh.
Considering the time, sweat, materials and future headaches...that's what I'm going to do.
Thanks for the reply.
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:29 AM   #7
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


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Last edited by mgray87; 06-23-2009 at 10:27 PM. Reason: duplicate post
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:57 AM   #8
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


just remember to check your codes. Here in NJ and most other places a shower REQUIRES a 2" drain. You know this is going to be a major PIA so so it once and do it right
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:29 PM   #9
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


So the question remains: once I get down to iron pipe, will a rubber sleeve and stainless clamps suffice to join the two?
Anybody?
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:35 PM   #10
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


NO WHAT YOU NEED IS WHAT IS CALLED A INSTANT SET SHOWER DRAIN,

I WOULD GET THIS FIRST SO YOU CAN SEE HOW IT WORKS THEN DO WHAT YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OLD DRAIN SO YOU CAN INSTALL THE INSTANT SET
SHOWER DRAIN IT HAS 3 S.S. BOLTS THAT TIGHTEN AROUND THE OUTSIDE
OF YOUR METAL OR CAST IRON PIPE TO SEAL THIS IS AN APPROVED WAY
OF SOLVING YOUR PROBLEM !
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JERRYMAC@UTAHWEB.COM
35 YR. MASTER PLUMBER WITH PH.D IN WATER HEATERLOGY, MASTERS DEGREE IN DRAINLOGY,
PLUMB ANY PIPE, SNAKE ANY DRAIN, MAKE COLD WATER BOIL ON A FREEZING DAY

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Old 06-24-2009, 11:04 AM   #11
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


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Originally Posted by macplumb View Post
no what you need is what is called a instant set shower drain,

i would get this first so you can see haw it works then do what you have to remove old drain so you can install the instant set
shower drain it has 3 s.s. Bolts that tighten around the outside
of your metal or cast iron pipe to seal this is an approved way
of solving your problem !
this is the answer i was looking for! Thank you for taking the time to reply!
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:42 AM   #12
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


Quote:
Originally Posted by mgray87 View Post

Not sure what I'll find but I think the outer ring is just a pipe used to support the drain while the slab was being poured.
In case there is any interest at all, here's more:
OK I've come to discover that the outer ring is not, in fact, a support pipe, but a bowl/dish shaped dealie.

Looks as if it might have been intended for a tile floor after all.
On top of that, this cast metal drain is attached to 2" PVC pipe, so I didn't need to go to all the trouble to source an Instant-Set (TM) Drain at all. It appears a standard 2" PVC Tile Drain will work after all.

As a side note, here's some info on the Instant-Set (TM) Drain:
Frank Pattern & Manufacturing (FP&M)
508 Winmoore Way
Modesto, CA 95358
209-538-3251
Guy's name is Tony Frank and he's a really nice guy who took plenty of time to talk to me about what I needed (This was based on my assumption that my drain pipe would be cast iron).
I had a helluva time finding a retailer that carried this, and Bell Plumbing & Heating here in CO (expletive deleted) could have cared less about my problem, but said they could get it for me but it would cost me $150. I ended up paying half of that.

Last edited by mgray87; 07-22-2009 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:53 PM   #13
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Out with old, metal drain, in with PVC


So, not much participation in this thread but I want to close it out with the results in case anybody else runs into similar circumstances.
The waste line ended up being PVC after all, so a standard tile drain worked.
Lesson learned: Just get out the demo-hammer and find out what ya got before ordering parts.
Here is the 1st layer of the shower pan which I just finished.

I have more questions -ie: how to do a shower pan liner with one concrete wall) so it's on to the next thread. Thanks to the people who took the time to read and reply.

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