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chris_p 01-31-2009 02:10 PM

Opinion needed about changing kitchen faucet
1 Attachment(s)
So I'm in a bit of a predicament and I need an opinion. I'm attaching a photo of the plumbing under my sink and I'm wondering what is the best way to proceed with the installation of a new faucet. You'll notice there is no valve to switch off the hot/cold water and it is simply connected with copper piping and some soldering. I am wondering if I should install valves myself or if I should just melt the solder, remove the copper piping, and fit the new hot/cold attachments and solder them in place. Thanks for the help.

Scuba_Dave 01-31-2009 02:18 PM

If they can't be easily shut off I would add valves

Bondo 01-31-2009 04:20 PM


I'd cut them off up on the 3/8" tubing,...
Add a couple of compression fitting stops,+ then on to the faucets...

DecksEtc 01-31-2009 04:27 PM

You're going to the trouble of removing the old tap and pipes so you might as well do it right and add shutoff valves while you're at it.

chris_p 01-31-2009 04:46 PM

Ya I think that would be the easiest way. I'll have to shut the water off to the whole house because there are no valves under the sink but I'm sure everything will go fine. Thanks.

Nestor_Kelebay 01-31-2009 04:59 PM

While you're at it, replace that stupid Emco valve with the blue handle.

Those things don't have a packing nut. Instead, they use an O-ring to prevent water from seeping past the stem. The problem is that after a while, you can't open or close those valves without water leaking past that O-ring.

If you're going to be shutting off the water to do some plumbing, you should replace that Emco valve with a ball valve too. And, get a ball valve with a packing nut. Some companies are making ball valves without packing nuts, and I think that dumb too.

Obviously, use a heat shield when soldering to prevent messing up the interior of your cabinets.

chris_p 01-31-2009 06:54 PM

Thanks for the advice. I'm just wondering if it would just be easier to install a compression valve instead of a ball valve to avoid soldering. This is my first plumbing project so I'm a bit of newbie in this area.

chris_p 02-01-2009 04:03 PM

1 Attachment(s)
So I've installed everything and now I'm having a problem with low hot water pressure. The cold water seem to be ok, but neither is as strong as before the installation. I installed two compression valves and I used flexible tubing instead of the 3/8 inch copper piping that was in place before. I don't think the faucet is faulty because it is brand new. Any ideas what could be causing the low hot water pressure? The flexible tubing isn't perfectly straight from the compression valve to the faucet valves, it curves a little bit because it was too long. Would this make a difference either? Thanks.

Simply Sal 02-01-2009 04:59 PM

In your picture, the braided line from the taps on the left side looks a bit pinched... check that.. also remove your aerator and see if you have some build up in there, simple but amazing how it can change the water pressure.

DecksEtc 02-01-2009 05:00 PM

The "curve" shouldn't be an issue but it does look like they're kinked a bit. Maybe they're fine but it's a little hard to tell from the photo.

There could be a problem with the fittings - kind of obvious but are you 100% sure they valves are open all the way?

Also, there could be a problem with the taps. Just because they're new doesn't mean they're okay.

Good luck.

chris_p 02-01-2009 08:10 PM

I disconnected the hot and cold lines from each compression valve because I wanted to test each valve. When I turned each valve on separately (and drained them into a bucket), there was high water pressure coming out of each hose, so that isolates the problem to the tap. I checked the aerator and it was clean, and I also tried to isolate the flow to a part of the tap but I couldn't find anything. Do you think I have a lemon for a tap and should I return it? Thanks.

kitsapjack 02-01-2009 10:39 PM

When switching from a standard kitchen sink faucet to a pull-out spout faucet you will notice a difference in the volume/pressure.
This type of faucet has a integral backflow preventer or two but I think the big difference is in the softer feel of the water as it leaves the spout. If you remove the aerator on the spout head you will find more than you're average of screens. I believe the combination of these devices cause the preceived poor performance of the new faucet. This is most noticable in houses with relativley low water pressure.

It's also possible that the in-line check valve on the spout hose is clogged.

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