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Old 10-26-2011, 01:21 PM   #16
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Not sure water heater


Is this a new water heater, and/or did you have the water lines disconnected? If so, check that the "cold" and "hot" water connections are not reversed.

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Old 10-26-2011, 01:26 PM   #17
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Sorry, got distracted for a few moments (which isn't hard for me to do any more!). Anyway, after eliminating the elements and connections, the next thing that I would consider is a bad dip tube.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:34 PM   #18
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Ok, checked both elements (again had to go back to manual on my multimeter) Thank goodness it's dumbie proof! Both good... then checked thermostat and both good! WTH.. I think my water heater is posessed!
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:39 PM   #19
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ok got a problem.... Put everything back together and turned on the power! Now it's making a funky noise! sounds like water is filling but its full! Wait better yet it sounds like water in a pan boiling! And it started approximately 30 seconds after turning on the power! holy crap I hope it dont blow up! WHAT DOES THS AIR HEAD DO? lol
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:42 PM   #20
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Sorry didn't see there was a second page! OOPSIE! Not new! (a year old) was given to us by a family member who upgraded to tankless! (which they are regreting). It was put in at the first of september! What ya mean by bad dip tube??? And the hot and cold lines are correct.. I at least know those ones! lol
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:49 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DexterII View Post
Sorry, got distracted for a few moments (which isn't hard for me to do any more!). Anyway, after eliminating the elements and connections, the next thing that I would consider is a bad dip tube.
How would that give her "just" warm water?

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Old 10-26-2011, 01:52 PM   #22
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Okay, so new to you, right? On the top of the heater, near the pipe connections, it should be stamped "Cold" and "Hot"; check that the supply line, the line coming from the meter or pump, is connected to "Cold".

The dip tube is an internal extension of the "Cold" or inlet side, and it's purpose is to direct the incoming water to the bottom of the tank, so that all of the water is heated. If this tube is broken, all of the water is not heated. If you search "dip tube", I am sure that you will find some diagrams that might explain it better.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:56 PM   #23
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Water lines are correct... Going to research now on that dip tube! let me guess if that's bad I am S.O.L? lol
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:57 PM   #24
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How would that give her "just" warm water?

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It prevents the water from being heated evenly; typically you will end up with hot water at the top of the tank, and cold at the bottom.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:00 PM   #25
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you have a disconnect next to the heater read 208Vs up on top where the power comes in from the breaker...so you read it there you should have 208Vs on both elements when they are heating one does control the other thru the stat setting
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:26 PM   #26
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1st problem its a whirlpool....ha ha ...no really junk....what was the 1st problem and why change both elements and stats.....iagree start over ..you don't have to drain...look for wiring diagram on back of panel..check and recheck 240 volt from panel to top element......may be 208 pending where you live?

Last edited by ben's plumbing; 10-26-2011 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:08 PM   #27
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Electric water heater? 240Vac? Wired 120vac?

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