Not enough hot water in the shower...

J187 · 02-05-2010, 06:01 PM

Here's the thing - the water heater is only about 18 months old and I've already tried replacing both thermostats and both elements. I've tried draining it an purging the sludge and I've tried resetting the heater and the breaker. It's a 50 Gallon electric unit. What else could be wrong?

bob22 · 02-05-2010, 08:03 PM

DId it ever produce enough hot water even in winter? Perhaps dip tube is broken? No warranty still in effect?

vsheetz · 02-05-2010, 10:32 PM

Did the previous water heater provide enough hot water?

Alan · 02-06-2010, 01:51 AM

Do you have hot water at all? Do you have only a LITTLE BIT of hot water, then luke-warm?

Did the previous heater work before swapping out for a new one?

Thurman · 02-06-2010, 07:51 AM

All good question's. Go to the hot water faucet the furthermost from the water heater, run the water from this faucet until it becomes as hot as it will get. Continue to allow this to run while using a "best guess" as to how long you would take a shower. IF this is satisfactory to you, then I would suspect a mixing valve problem at the shower. Of course--IF it is not hot enough, or not enough hot water volume, then I would suspect the heater. I'd suspect the dip tube first. David

**oh'mike** · 02-06-2010, 08:14 AM

Make sure that you have the cold and hot piping going into the correct inlets on the heater----

I've seen this mistake in the past---Dual heater set-up--Home owner had them both replaced by a licensed plumber---Plumber must have assumed that the original install was correct--Mike--

J187 · 02-08-2010, 08:21 AM

The water is hot and lasts fine through the first shower. My wife showers at 6am for around 10 minutes. I shower at around 6:45 and it only lasts a couple minutes. The mixing valve is actually new as well. The hot water worked perfectly about a month ago.

AllanJ · 02-08-2010, 08:33 AM

When you replaced the elements I hope you did not turn the power back on until you had water gushing out of an open hot faucet to signify hat the tank was filled.

Otherwise you could have blown out an element.

After tyour shower is the hot pipe above the water heater cold signifying the heater has indeed put out cold water as opposed to some malfunction closer to the shower such as sediment in the shower faucet? Do you turn the water on higher that may cause anti-scald mechanisms to behave differently if they are not working quite right to begin with?

Alan · 02-08-2010, 10:09 AM

If you've changed thermostats and elements already, that shouldn't be the problem.

What you're left with is either Hot and cold lines are reversed

OR

One of your wires broke inside the wire nut when you wired it back together. Thus trying to heat all that water with only 110 instead of 220.

william duffer · 02-10-2010, 01:05 AM

I would try getting up a bit earlier and taking the first shower and than the problem is solved. You may have a different problem but you get a nice hot shower....You

Wife

Really I would do some more Trouble shooting. My friend had a leak in his system causing him to have problems but he had a recirculating system. If it happened a month ago and nothing else has been changed then I would say you have a leak, a clog, or you need to replace your heater. Turn everything off in the house and see if your meter outside is still spinning. I am no pro just fixed a lot of Stuff for a lot of people.

Alan · 02-10-2010, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by william duffer

or you need to replace your heater.

He already did that. Changed elements, changed thermostats.

There is nothing else to change. If the tank isn't leaking, then leave the

thing alone.

wrangler · 02-10-2010, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J187

The water is hot and lasts fine through the first shower. My wife showers at 6am for around 10 minutes. I shower at around 6:45 and it only lasts a couple minutes. The mixing valve is actually new as well. The hot water worked perfectly about a month ago.

What was done a month ago? Is that when you replaced the thermo, the elements, or the mixer? I would start there. If the mixer was changed recently, I would ensure that the anti-scald is set high enough. On most newer valves this is done fairly easily. Look up your model and download the installation instructions if you no longer have them, or write back for more help.

J187 · 02-14-2010, 09:01 AM

Thanks guys. I definitely waited for the tank to fill before turning the juice back on. The temp on the mixing valve is definitely set right. Ive even increased it. There's no way it's leaking. I've checked both elements again with a multi meter and they are good.

J187 · 02-14-2010, 12:55 PM

UPDATE:

Ok, while both elements do have proper resistance, this morning I did some more testing. This time voltage... something interesting came up...

THere is power to both top terminals of the high temp switch. And, when probed together, there is 240volts.

So, I went to test the voltage at the elements and found no reading... now I know the top element is working because there is definitely hot water. SO, I grounded one side of the meter and tested each terminal of the element seperately. Sure enough, 110v each side, but when probed together, nothing. This should read 220v, right? Bottom element is the same way, 110 each leg, nothing togher.

Assume that I am right that the elements are supposed to show 220... then somewhere between the top two terminals of the High Temp switch and the element, I'm losing my 220... does this seem accurate to anyone?

**oh'mike** · 02-14-2010, 02:21 PM

What kind of breaker have you got? sounds like both 110 lines are coming off the same leg---

Start working your way back to the source(all the way to your main breaker---)

very strange-- ?