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Old 11-11-2011, 07:29 AM   #31
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no permit replumb?


i think we're digressing here. i'm basically ripping out 25y/o copper pipes and replacing it with PEX-a with a valved central manifold. i've studied the 2009 IPC and the only thing i've found that helps in terms of code compliance is spacing of tie-downs: 32" horizontal, midpoint of story for vertical. also any PEX connections need to be at least 18" from the water heater and water heater cold water supply needs a shut-off valve.

2 big questions i have are (1) what are the approved methods to bring the 3/4" PVC main water pipe up to the attic, and (2) what are the approved methods to pull the PEX through the ceiling from the central manifold?

i'd like to keep it simple and just run the 3/4" PVC up the side of the house and into the attic tied down however often code requires, but a plumber i called to get a quote said they'd actually pull the pipe through the concrete blocks. is this required by 2009 IPC or IRC? does PEX need to be sleeved when pulled through concrete block?

i know code says cold and hot PEX should be bundled separately. what i didn't find any mention of is what approved methods are of passing the (many) PEX lines from the central manifold through the ceiling without violating some kind of structural/building code about how ceilings and walls should abut.

can anyone point me in the right direction as far as where in the 2009 IPC or IRC or IBC or IMC i should be looking?

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Old 11-11-2011, 07:30 AM   #32
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I'm the one who mentioned that, and did so because it's true.
Did the inspector give a reason why additional fasteners could not be added to achieve compliance with the nailing schedule?
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:18 AM   #33
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Did the inspector give a reason why additional fasteners could not be added to achieve compliance with the nailing schedule?
Because then they wouldn't have been correctly spaced. "Code says the drywall screws are to be spaced 8" on walls and 6" on ceilings."

Yes, the guy really was/is that much of a dick.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:42 AM   #34
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Because then they wouldn't have been correctly spaced. "Code says the drywall screws are to be spaced 8" on walls and 6" on ceilings."

Yes, the guy really was/is that much of a dick.
This is the sort of situation where I ask for a meeting with the inspector and his supervisor:

"IMO the code specifies the minimum spacing, but does not prohibit additional fasteners. If the edge of a panel was 7-3/4 from the ceiling or floor, would you prohibit a fastener 1" from the panel edge?"

Might work, might not, but it can be very effective to politely ask an AHJ to explain their logic in a case like this, especially if you can give a contra-example.

Of course, sometimes the code official effectively has no supervision, and you are just stuck.

That's why the worst actual corruption I've encountered has been at small AHJ's in rural areas, these people can be far more blatant that even a corrupt inspector here in Chicago, because the only people in a position interfere are their pals - at least here in Chicago the inspectors have to fear the occasional Federal \corruption investigation. The Feds are never going to bother with Oceana County MI, which (at least 25 years ago) was the most blatantly corrupt AHJ I ever had to deal with.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:29 AM   #35
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no permit replumb?


i'm not sure how this thread got hijacked to become a discussion of inspectors, but i sure would like to get some advice as to where to look for relevant sections of 2009 international plumbing code or 2009 international residential code that tells me:

(1) approved methods for bringing 3/4" PVC water main into the attic and/or through an exterior concrete block wall;

and (2) approved methods for running multiple 1/2" PEX from the central manifold along the wall and through the ceiling into the attic.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:43 AM   #36
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As a homeowner, I have not done any plumbing with PEX but have done some with regular galvinized. I have run the yellow poly poipe 3/4 inch from my 3/4 inch galv. pool heater line to my outdoor kitchen and did not have a problem. I used a riser to go under the ground and all compression fittings.

I know I was quoted 1200 dollars from a company that sold me the appliances and I got on line and by asking questions and reading on the internet I did a fine job. The piping was cheap. The only problem I had to buy 100 foot roll but it was like only 30.00 for the whole roll. The fittings were very expensive but I ended up doing this for less than 300.00.

I had a quote just yesterday in fact from the plumber that connected up the gas to my 17 KW emergency generator and he just asked me how many baths and sinks, washer etc. I had. He said he would do it for 3,000.00. That sounded high to me as I remembered how inexpensive the 3/4 inch poly was I had used for the outdoor kitchenl.

I guess I will be getting more estimates.

As far as permits, I would require the plumber that does it for me to get a permit, even though I could get by without it but I want to make sure this job is done correctly so I don't have problems down the road.

Tom
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:29 AM   #37
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I had a quote just yesterday in fact from the plumber that connected up the gas to my 17 KW emergency generator and he just asked me how many baths and sinks, washer etc. I had.
Tom
What's the relationship of the bath fixtures to the estimate for running the gas to the generator?
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:20 AM   #38
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The gas hook up price was in the contract for the electric company to install my generator. I was talking to the plumbing man who then gave me the 3000.00 estimate to change over the galvinized household plumbing to PEX.

Two seperate things.

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