Hello everyone,
Its been a long time since I have been on here! I'm looking for a little help in repositioning my P-trap for a new vanity. The new vanity has a higher floor than the old one and sits a few inches below the bottom. I don't really want to cut an 8 inch hole into the new vanity but I also understand that if I put two 45s coming out of the wall it will be an S-trap which isn't a good thing. Can someone take a look at the attached pictures and make a suggestion on how to proceed? I have thought about maybe converting to a smaller pipe once it is out of the wall, but I would prefer to keep the same size...but honestly I just want something that works! I have attached a top view, side view, and behind the wall view.
Thanks for any help or suggestions anyone can provide!
Cut the PVC 5/8" from the fitting that is in the wall and glue on an 1 1/2" slip x 1 1/4" MIPS Adapter (the debth of the fitting is actually closer to 3/4" but many times the cut is not square so I recommend 5/8") and use tubular trap to get faster flow than 1 1/2". If you have a pop up in the new sink, you will also have to monitor the lever to be sure that hair does not build up on it to cause slow drain. Can you position the new cabinet and inch or two left or right? If so you will have room to position the trap if it is too close to the wall. good luck
You have 2 options-
keep the trap elavation and notch the cabinet or
follow the trap arm back to the vertical drain and then raise the trap arm tee to the height you need
Appears your water lines will be an issue also. If it was me I'd return the vanity and buy one that works better with your current drain and water line set up. Otherwise open up the wall and raise the drain and water lines above that white shelf, just make sure you have room to tie in the sink
Yeah, already planning on moving the water lines up to the left. I guess I'll just notch out the part of the cabinet where the p trap sits. No one will see it, just hurts to cut into a new vanity.
If you notch out too much, install a new brace across the back to keep the cabinet from coming apart. So many of these cabinets are not made with solid wood, but press board which is a pethetic material for construction. Cheeeeeeeepo. Hopefully you have real wood and can add the brace. I would add it prior to cutting the existing wood.
Don't know if this will help, but there is a reversible trap where the u bend can be reversed for changing positions. It looked like every time I put a new faucet with its drain tail, the positions would change and this is what I found. I am assuming it is ok to use because it is on the market.:smile: If it goes down enough, you can drill a hole instead of a notch.
Sorry don't know how to put a link here. It's easy though. I found it in amazon and it's called Deerborn Brass p trap with reversible j bend. I just typed "reversible trap". I bought one just in case and both sides of the u have the bevel to fit the piece that goes into the wall. Will have to find extra long drain piece from the sink.
I do take a hard look at things I buy - although, any port in a storm.
This configuration puts one more joint under water and would assume it has more chance of a leak.
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