New toilet wont go all the way down into place

ron0805

Im installing a toilet in my basement floor,which is concrete.I have it all ready in place but it wont completely touch the concrete,is this normal so when i do install tile it can go underneath the toilet.I have the wax ring in place and i pushed it down as hard as i could but it will not touch the floor.The nuts are screwed in also

thx

Plumber101

If you can pull the toilet and take a pic of the flange and post it here so we can take a look at it.

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plumber Jim

What kind of toilet is it? a cheap pegasus from depot? if so you need to toss that wax ring it came with and use a good one without the horn. the one they give you is hard as a rock and won't set. If its not that then we will wait to see pictures.

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plumber Jim

Oh, forgot does it set nice and flush without the wax ring on?

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AllanJ

Install the tile or other finished flooring before installing the toilet.

Sometimes the flange does not fit inside the toilet lower footing. A PVC flange can be trimmed away provided the part where the bolt is fitted through is not compromised.

If the toilet has to be removed, the wax ring already used has to be fluffed back into its original shape before you try again, or (for example if it is too dirty) discarded and replaced.

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oh'mike

Yikes--Never reuse a wax ring.They are soooo cheap-the damage caused by a leaking toilet soooo
expensive -why would any one take a chance ,Just to save 3 or 4 dollars?

majakdragon

Is the flange flush/sitting on the floor or up off the floor (with space under it)? Trying to install flooring around an existing toilet is a real pain. Install the floor first. I have never seen a wax seal so hard that it cannot be compressed. Sounds more like a flange positioning problem.

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oh'mike

are you trying to use a wax ring with a plastic horn?--They often have a foam ring under the wax,making it to thick.

Try an old fashioned all wax ,wax ring.

majakdragon

I have used the seals with plastic horns for years, and never had a problem, as long as the drain pipe was 3" or 4". I did find one that was 2-1/2" and the horn would not go down into the pipe. Only one I have ever seen. I have used Kno-leak and Kant-leak brand.

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ron0805

well the toilet is only really about 1\8 off the concrete at the back,but the bolts are on tight and it stil moves around a little.Do i have to try and level the toilet and will it be ok and not move if i put calk on when i put in the floor?

jogr

Ron, please don't put the tile floor in with the toilet installed. It's so much better to install the toilet after the floor. If you need to temporarily install the toilet before the floor then shim it so it doesn't rock. I've seen others suggest cutting some pressure treated plywood to match the shape of the toilet base to simulate the height of the tile.

Tiling will be much easier with the toilet removed and will look much better. It will only cost you 2 bucks or less for a new wax ring. The few minutes to pull and reinstall the toilet will save the time you'd spend cutting tile to fit around the toilet base. And then if you ever have to replace the toilet you won't need to worry about whether the base is the same shape (it won't be).

Oh and yes level the toilet.

AllanJ

If the toilet rocks back and forth after you installed it, then you've broken the wax seal. The toilet may or may not leak at floor level right away but it really should be taken up, re-prepped so as to not rock when test fitted in place without the wax seal and without caulk, and then re-installed with new wax seal.

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