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-   -   New toilet flange; not level with floor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/new-toilet-flange-not-level-floor-139150/)

housegsx 04-03-2012 02:47 PM

New toilet flange; not level with floor
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hi, all of my dwv pipes in my house have just been replaced with abs as a part of my bathroom remodel project.
A couple days ago I glued the flange onto the outside of the 3" pipe. I thought there would be enough play in the pipes to make the flange level on the floor once bolted down. I was wrong. This isn't even close.

What should I do? I was thinking about cutting of this flange and getting a new one that goes inside the pipe with a rubber donut and hoping there will be enough play in the donut to go in slightly crooked.

Attachment 48514

TheEplumber 04-03-2012 02:52 PM

If you have access below, you can cut the 3" horizontal line, then use a coupling to rotate the pipe so it's plumb.
Or call your plumber back.. if you hired the work done. No excuse for a professional.

M3 Pete 04-03-2012 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 891098)
If you have access below, you can cut the 3" horizontal line, then use a coupling to rotate the pipe so it's plumb.
Or call your plumber back.. if you hired the work done. No excuse for a professional.

He said he glued the pipe. oops

But I like your solution, better than cutting the vertical. I assume you are talking about a glued coupling, right?

housegsx 04-03-2012 03:14 PM

The flange is glued directly to a 90 elbow then a coupler then a Y for the shower and sink. Right behind that is my T for the vent. There aren't really any runs of piping between the fittings, everything is really tight.

The way that flange is attathed to the elbow wouldn't change if the elbow was rotated. It sits like that because it seems there is too much slope.

housegsx 04-03-2012 03:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is a pic from the under the floor from the closet behind the bathroom. You can see in the foreground the Y for the toilet and shower/sink. Further back you can see the coupler immediated after

Attachment 48517

the elbow, and on the other end of that coupler through the floor joist is the 90 that the flange attaches to.

Alan 04-03-2012 09:50 PM

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2307326..._lwgsi=y&cbt=y



:thumbup:

TheEplumber 04-03-2012 10:02 PM

You have to have the riser below the flange plumb. They don't make a flange to compensate for it.

housegsx 04-03-2012 10:48 PM

Ok, so I did try to put 2 screws in on the high side. It brought it down alot so far, probably 1/2 if what is was before.

What about a little heat down the pipe? Maybe it will flex enough to make the difference.

jimmy21 04-03-2012 11:05 PM

do yourself a favor and cut it all out and start the section over. It sounds like a lot of work, but it will be faster and better

Alan 04-04-2012 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by housegsx (Post 891368)
Ok, so I did try to put 2 screws in on the high side. It brought it down alot so far, probably 1/2 if what is was before.

What about a little heat down the pipe? Maybe it will flex enough to make the difference.

No. The screws that you're using to force the high side of the flange down are going to crack the plastic over time.

Both of these ideas are bad. A good idea would be to start over at the nearest fitting, and use the tool I linked to above to save yourself from having to cut ALL of that stuff out.


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