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Cjohn 06-27-2012 08:50 AM

New sink too low--push-pop drain help?
Hi Everyone,

We put in a new granite vanity top with under mount sinks guessed it, didn't check to make sure the sinks tail pipe was low enough to work with the new, lower sinks.

We turned the p-trap around and used a mini-extender on the other side to get it to work, but it leaks, especially around the knob where the arm to the pop up drain fits. What we have now:

So, I was wondering--anyone know if it would it be possible to use a push-pop-up drain (the kind made for vessel sinks)? That would eliminate the leak around the knob. Also, if it is possible to use that kind of drain in a vanity sink, would it be possible to cut it short enough that we wouldn't need to reverse the ptrap and add the extender? We can't cut our current drain short enough because the knob for the push-pop handle is in the way. Our sink does have an overflow hole--I don't know enough about that to know if it matters.

Anyway, hoping someone can help--don't want to spend a grand in plumbing for a $700 vanity!


TheEplumber 06-27-2012 08:59 AM

I know you don't want to hear it but you need to lower the waste outlet behind the cabinet.
Or find a shallower lav...
Or try a grid strainer drain- like you see in public restrooms. they do not have plugs.

Cjohn 06-27-2012 09:15 AM

You're right, ePlumber, that's not what I want to hear! Can you explain why a push-top wouldn't work as well as a grate? are the internal workings too deep, or do they just not fit regular sinks?

And whats the deal re: with v. without overflow?

Thanks for your help!!

TheEplumber 06-27-2012 09:38 AM


Originally Posted by Cjohn (Post 952558)
You're right, ePlumber, that's not what I want to hear! Can you explain why a push-top wouldn't work as well as a grate? are the internal workings too deep, or do they just not fit regular sinks?

And whats the deal re: with v. without overflow?

Thanks for your help!!

I can't answer these questions because :
1. never installed one of these types of drains so I don't know their configuration.
2. Not sure what you're referencing.

EMD360 06-27-2012 09:41 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I would try getting rid of both extensions first. You can get a very short ~ 1.5 inch sink connector. One comes with the kitchen t pipe (cross over) connection. I just bought one. It has the parts I'm recommending you try. For $6.97 at HD, it might be worth trying.
This kit also has a shallow wall extension that the trap can be connected to the drain outlet with and it will be at least 2 or 3 inches higher. Might be just enough to work in this situation.
Here are the parts of the kit that might work.

EMD360 06-27-2012 09:49 AM

I may have misunderstood the problem. You are saying that your drain leaks because the pipe wasn't long enough for the drain plug assembly. (So a shorter one would not help!)
I have the vessel sink push drains in our bathroom sinks. I got them at Lowes and they were very reasonably priced. Our vessels don't have overflows (the extra drain from the top of the sink that yours has), but I don't see that makes a difference in the type of drain plug you can use.
And the push drain assembly I bought is plastic, so you could easily cut it short enough for your assembly. I'd still get rid of the extensions. The leak may be caused by lack of proper drainage.

Cjohn 06-27-2012 11:12 AM

Thanks everyone!

So the problem is that the black part in the picture is too long, and we can't cut it short enough because of where the pop-up handle attaches to the side. Our current one is like this, but black:

Also, where the pop-up handle attaches is below the tailpeice, so it stays underwater and leaks. That's why I was hoping I could get a push-pop drain, because it doesn't have a hole for a lever. like this one:

I was also hoping it could be cut short, so I wouldn't have to turn my ptrap around. Does that make more sense? Sorry, I'm not so great at explaining!

TheEplumber 06-27-2012 11:32 AM

Yes it makes total sense but I don't think you have enough height any way.
If you want to do it totally correct, without flipping the trap-which may pose draining/leak issues in the future(not to mention it's against code)- open the wall and lower the trap arm.

Cjohn 06-27-2012 11:45 AM

Yeah, we had a plumber out to look at it, and he said because it's a T, the whole vanity would have to be pulled out on order to get enough access to move the pipes (there are two sinks in the vanity), and he said rough estimate the cost would start at $800--a little irritating since we just paid $700 for the granite vanity top and sinks to be installed and the installer told us it would be about $50 per sink for the plumbing (yeah--kicking myself for listening to that guy).

Anyway, we're now considering raising the whole vanity by putting it on a 2x4 frame. It'd give us the inches we need, and actually, the vanity's a little short for us anyway. Still--that's going to be a PITA too.The old vanity top in all its vomit brown glory isn't looking so bad now, cracked sinks and all. DEFINITELY regretting starting this whole project--but that seems to be standard for home reno projects!

TheEplumber 06-27-2012 12:08 PM

Raising the top is a good approach. Vanities are common at 36" now. Mine is and I like it.
Consider cutting the back out of the cabinet to access the tee. I've done it several times on kitchens
Good luck

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oh'mike 06-28-2012 06:47 AM

Pulling out the vanity might not be an easy option--

Cutting open the back of the cabinet using a Multi tool is a good DIY project--

Dropping the T to the proper height is usually not that difficult---unless the T is part of a lateral pipe--

What is behind that vanity? could the surgery be done from the backside of that wall?

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