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Old 09-06-2012, 11:38 PM   #16
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


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Originally Posted by jaydevries View Post
you could go old school and use a few galvanized nipples and a 90 for tub diverter so it is rigid
*cringe*

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Old 09-06-2012, 11:41 PM   #17
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Does anyone have any pics of a tub spout and hand shower rough out?

This is a Kohler valve with diverter on the valve. The spout just screws on.
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:47 PM   #18
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


I just saw copper fittings on YouTube that have the solder I guess built in. He just put some flux paste on and then heated up the pipe and was done.

I like that.

A lot.

That would be cool if they have that for an elbow that will support a tub spout and shower outlet.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:32 AM   #19
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


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I found this setup (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/bernzom...l#.UEl4q6NST0U) to be better because I don't have to hold the bottle in my hand while soldering and the trigger is much smaller, allowing better movement.

This kit comes with a bottle holder that gets clipped on to your belt.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:52 AM   #20
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


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Originally Posted by noone View Post
Does anyone have any pics of a tub spout and hand shower rough out?

This is a Kohler valve with diverter on the valve. The spout just screws on.
Not sure what you are asking, is this diagram what you are looking for?



The file is from the URL you provided (http://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/k.../1110626_2.pdf)

A & B usually come in brass with "ears" to secure it to the blocking via screws (I used Deckmate 1 1/2" screws). I think these elbows come with either a threaded or soldering ends.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:59 AM   #21
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Quote:
Originally Posted by noone View Post
I just saw copper fittings on YouTube that have the solder I guess built in. He just put some flux paste on and then heated up the pipe and was done.

I like that.

A lot.

That would be cool if they have that for an elbow that will support a tub spout and shower outlet.
I tried several of these solder "tape" copper fittings with so-so results. Some ended up having small leaks and when I examined closer, most of them had missing or torn solder tapes.

Since you will be soldering anyway, why not learn how to apply the solder? Depending on the size of the pipe you are sweating, you can visually check and confirm how much solder is being applied.

It felt great to sweat a joint, wipe it with a dry rag and have it leak proof the first time!
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:00 AM   #22
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Ok, I see now.

And I have now watched many youtubes of how to solder properly.

I particularly liked this series:



I am READY.

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Old 09-08-2012, 10:00 PM   #23
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


I talked to a guy today that said he plumbed his shower valve inputs and outputs exclusively using cpvc to copper transition fittings. No soldering necessary.

Such as this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...ct_description and this http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Pi...1#.UEv3MGt5mK0

Since those ears will be secured to 2 x 4s is there any reason I should not plumb it this way? Am I missing something?

Last edited by noone; 09-08-2012 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:44 AM   #24
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Quote:
Originally Posted by noone View Post
I talked to a guy today that said he plumbed his shower valve inputs and outputs exclusively using cpvc to copper transition fittings. No soldering necessary.

Such as this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...ct_description and this http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Pi...1#.UEv3MGt5mK0

Since those ears will be secured to 2 x 4s is there any reason I should not plumb it this way? Am I missing something?
The problem with CPVC in my opinion is the dry time on the glue. If for some reason a repair has to be made, you have to wait hours and hours for the glue to set up before the water comes back on.

Otherwise, I see no real issue with what you are proposing. As a general rule at our shop, we like to keep the piping in the house the same. Repair copper with copper, repair CPVC with CPVC, but there's nothing in my code that would prohibit the use of multiple types of piping in a house.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:34 PM   #25
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


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The problem with CPVC in my opinion is the dry time on the glue. If for some reason a repair has to be made, you have to wait hours and hours for the glue to set up before the water comes back on.

Otherwise, I see no real issue with what you are proposing. As a general rule at our shop, we like to keep the piping in the house the same. Repair copper with copper, repair CPVC with CPVC, but there's nothing in my code that would prohibit the use of multiple types of piping in a house.
My house is plumbed entirely with cpvc here in north Florida.

The builder from 1996 used copper coming out of the original shower valve for some reason. Maybe they didn't have these transition drop ears back then.

Last edited by noone; 09-09-2012 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:21 PM   #26
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


HELP.

I just spent hours trying to get this thing all plumbed up and then I had it all glued in and everything screwed on tight and it started leaking from the threads on the water inlets on the valve after I turned the water back on.

I thought I had it tight enough. I guess not. I didn't know if there was a 'too tight'. I had about 3 or 4 winds of teflon tape on there. Am I supposed to keep screwing it on until no more threads are visible? Was that my issue?

I only want to have to do this over again one more time....

Thanks for the assistance.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:30 PM   #27
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


I never rely on tape alone. I use tape and dope, such as Rectorseal PTFE
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:37 PM   #28
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Which one is PTFE?

http://www.homedepot.com/Rectorseal/...#/?c=1&1qs=1qs
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:54 AM   #29
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Ok, here we go.

I'm thinking of resorting to sharkbite fittings that screw onto the valve. That way I don't have to keep redoing everything if it leaks at the threads.

Thoughts?

Last edited by noone; 09-15-2012 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:51 AM   #30
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New showerbath valve install - Does the pipe going to the tub have to be copper?


Just a quick note on your picture.....

Did you check the depth of your valve? That looks like a Kohler valve in a 2x4 wall to me : Usually the applications that I deal with from day to day require the Kohler valves to be completely buried against the sheetrock on the other side of the 2x4 wall to have the proper depth for wall material in the shower.

To answer your original question about tightness : It's something you learn with practice. Obviously yours wasn't tight enough. Did you use two wrenches? Did you wrap the tape in the correct direction?

Feel free to go the sharkbite route if you must.... I would never do that behind a custom shower, but it's your house, and even if I told you not to, you wouldn't have to listen anyway. I wouldn't do it. Then again, I wouldn't have used CPVC either. Now when you take it apart you're going to have to wait for the glue to set up for hours again before turning on the water. The other option is to use a union on both sides, but I don't like that idea either, since you really don't have a situation where you NEED one.

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