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Old 04-16-2009, 07:21 PM   #1
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New Electric Water Heater Install


Hello All,

I am installing a 40 gallon electric tank. The problem is that this new tank is an inch taller than the old tank. The relief valve is actually higher than the copper coming out of the wall where it will connect. I was going to use the flexible, braided stainless steel hose and make a loop for that. The cold water inlet and the hot water outlet are also tight. I have enough room for a 3/4" elbow and about 1/2" of straight pipe and then the 3/4" female which will thread onto the male fitting of the tank.
My questions:

Is the flexible stainless acceptable for the pressure relief ?

Is it alright to have an almost immediate 90 degree into and out of the tank?

Lastly, The #4 copper ground line is attached to the cold water pipe, but is between the shut-off and the tank, not between the shut-off and the ground rod. Will this be alright?

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks In Advance,
Russell

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Old 04-16-2009, 07:28 PM   #2
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New Electric Water Heater Install


mine has 2 90s and is pvc and passed inspection, so i see no reason stainless would not be acceptable. it's going to (hopefully) never be used anyways.....

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Old 04-16-2009, 07:33 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by RustyRealtor View Post
Hello All,

I am installing a 40 gallon electric tank. The problem is that this new tank is an inch taller than the old tank. The relief valve is actually higher than the copper coming out of the wall where it will connect. I was going to use the flexible, braided stainless steel hose and make a loop for that. The cold water inlet and the hot water outlet are also tight. I have enough room for a 3/4" elbow and about 1/2" of straight pipe and then the 3/4" female which will thread onto the male fitting of the tank.
My questions:

Is the flexible stainless acceptable for the pressure relief ?

Is it alright to have an almost immediate 90 degree into and out of the tank?

Lastly, The #4 copper ground line is attached to the cold water pipe, but is between the shut-off and the tank, not between the shut-off and the ground rod. Will this be alright?

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks In Advance,
Russell

#`1 you will have to know the temp & pressure ratings tor the ss flex & just make sure the t&p relief line pitches downward from the relief valve.. The temp & pressure ratings for the t& p valve are on the t&p tag




# 2 I don't like to do that. but,,,,sometimes you don't have much room to work with & you have to do what you have to do to install



# 3 Just my opinion,,,, I would move the ground B-4 the water valve

Last edited by kenmac; 04-16-2009 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:47 AM   #4
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Do I need a heat loop?
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:00 AM   #5
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Heat loop? I am not familiar with one, never used one for water heaters.

Also not sure about using flexible stainless for pressure relief valve, if you use it make sure it is secure and will not "whip" if it actually had to be used. You may want to consider cpvc or pvc as it is easier to work with in tight areas.
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:10 AM   #6
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Do I need a heat loop?
by heat loop if you mean recirculating line that is up to you.are you happy with how fast you get hot water at your furthest faucet from the water heater? if you are you don't need one. Personally I don't mind waiting 10 or 15 seconds for hot water so I don't waste the money on a recirculating system.
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:16 AM   #7
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Sorry for the confusion, but what I mean is this: Should I bring the copper coming out of the tank up 9" or so and then back down to to the pipes coming out of the wall. Sort of like copper question mark ?'

Thanks,
Russell
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyRealtor View Post
Hello All,

I am installing a 40 gallon electric tank. The problem is that this new tank is an inch taller than the old tank. The relief valve is actually higher than the copper coming out of the wall where it will connect. I was going to use the flexible, braided stainless steel hose and make a loop for that. The cold water inlet and the hot water outlet are also tight. I have enough room for a 3/4" elbow and about 1/2" of straight pipe and then the 3/4" female which will thread onto the male fitting of the tank.
My questions:

Is the flexible stainless acceptable for the pressure relief ?

Is it alright to have an almost immediate 90 degree into and out of the tank?

Lastly, The #4 copper ground line is attached to the cold water pipe, but is between the shut-off and the tank, not between the shut-off and the ground rod. Will this be alright?

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks In Advance,
Russell
Most of your questions really depend on the code in your area. As for flex on the relief valve I wouldn't do it if you have to put a loop in it but if you could hook it up straight I don't see any problem but again it all depends on the codes in your area. I do have one question though. On your relief valve you say the pipe goes into the wall. Can you see the other end of the pipe so you will know if your relief valve starts discharging? The reason I ask is because if your relief valve is discharging and you can't see it this could be very costly in the long run especially with an electric water heater.
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:28 AM   #9
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I cannot see where the relief valve terminates. I assume it goes into washing machine drain line. I suppose I could run it down the side of the tank and cap the copper going into the wall.

I think that I will use the flexible copper for the hot & cold lines. That way, I will have enough room to make a loop.

Russell
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:32 AM   #10
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Sorry for the confusion, but what I mean is this: Should I bring the copper coming out of the tank up 9" or so and then back down to to the pipes coming out of the wall. Sort of like copper question mark ?'

Thanks,
Russell
You are not suppose to make a trap out of water lines which is what you are actually doing. If you do trap the water line you should have a way to drain it if it ever needs it. Have you thought about using flexible copper hook ups. that way if you ever had to drain it you could just unscrew them to take them off. they look like twisted copper pipe with unions on each end. pretty much like the braided steel you want to use on the relief valve only more rigid available at home depot, lowes and plumbing supply houses. they also make replacing the water heater easier down the line. again check on your codes to make sure they are legal in your area.
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:38 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by RustyRealtor View Post
I cannot see where the relief valve terminates. I assume it goes into washing machine drain line. I suppose I could run it down the side of the tank and cap the copper going into the wall.

I think that I will use the flexible copper for the hot & cold lines. That way, I will have enough room to make a loop.

Russell
The only reason I mention the relief valve line is , we had a guy in maryland one time and his relief valve went outside the house which was code in that county at the time. well he didn't know what that line was he thought it was a condensate line for his air conditioner. he noticed it dripping but did n't realize it was hot water until winter when he noticed it was steaming hot water. after we fixed his relief valve his electric bill went down 30 dollars a month.
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:38 AM   #12
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I will post some photos later today.

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