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Old 01-06-2012, 10:00 AM   #1
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new construction,DWV and water sup.


I would like some professional input , I AM NOT A PLUMBER and would like to know if the following drawing looks right.

This is my own home and I will be doing the work of GC and as much labor as possible.

I have never run DWV dut I understand the basics of plumbing, slope, venting, sizing pipe etc.

One beginning question I have is: Am I able to use thin walled SCH 20 PVC pipe sloped at 1/8" per ft. when running Drain outside slab? Under slab will be SCH 40 PVC, slope @1/4" per ft

I live in Tx and I am the HO. No inspection is required but I want it to be DONE TO CODE.

THNX in advance for your input
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:47 AM   #2
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new construction,DWV and water sup.


You did ask for a pro plumber, which I am not....but I'll throw my $.02 in there anyway............

AFAIK, 1/8" per foot is not code anywhere. It must be 1/4" per ft. or more.


Also not sure if Sch.-20 is acceptable for any kind of plumbing......and since I've never seen any in the supply houses.....ever.....it would probably cost more than Sch.-40 anyway.

(unless that green flimsy sh!+ that you use for gutter run-off, etc. is Sch.-20)

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Old 01-06-2012, 10:53 AM   #3
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new construction,DWV and water sup.


There's plenty of real plumbers on this site that will be jumping in.
Why would you even be thinking of using Sch. 20?
That's made for french drains and under ground down spout drains, and would not even adapt to sch 40 when making the connections.
Plumbing is one of the things you should be subing out to a pro. Done wrong and it's just not going to work and your stuck ripping out walls to fix it later. At least let them do the rough in.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:33 AM   #4
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new construction,DWV and water sup.


I'll tell you what the UPC says since thats the code I work under.
3034 pvc pipe is approved outside the building footprint. I really don' remember its schedule but they do have transition fittings to adapt it to any type of pipe. We use 3034 exclusively for sewer connections
Yes, you can run 4" pipe at 1/8" per ft. You will need to discount the fixture unit load but on your house you won't come close to maxing out a 4" pipe, so no worries there. 1/4" is preferred though.

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Old 01-06-2012, 12:06 PM   #5
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Thin wall pipe is half the cost of SCH 40 and I am running majority of waste line outside slab. I was told that code says you are allowed to use the thin wall as long as it is not under foundation. Not sure if it is SCH 20 or not but it is thin walled.

OK 1/4" per foot is easly done, I am digging is back fill no roots,no rocks.

As far as hiring a pro plumber I can tell u that I have received 3 bids from licenesed plumbers and they are all over the board. This job is a maximum 50 hrs with 16 fixtures from rough in to top out and the labor is around $250.00 per hr plus fixtures.

That is way to much IMHO. I have hard numbers on fixture prices from a local supply house and the material is around $5000.00 That puts me at $16,000.00 total That is double what this house should be.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:57 PM   #6
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I will always bid high to HO 's who act as GC's and supply materials. They are notorious for being unorganized, off schedule and never have all the parts. This costs me time which is money.
Good luck with your project.

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Old 01-06-2012, 03:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
I will always bid high to HO 's who act as GC's and supply materials. They are notorious for being unorganized, off schedule and never have all the parts. This costs me time which is money.
Good luck with your project.

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I have taken that into consideration also, this is not the first home I have built but hopefully my last. But trying to convince someone who does not know me from Adam is a tough sell.

I would even let the contractor supply if the price came into a reasonable figure. Im not opposed to paying their markup. Heck I will get a superior product and warranty.
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:14 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by shnysdup View Post
I have taken that into consideration also, this is not the first home I have built but hopefully my last. But trying to convince someone who does not know me from Adam is a tough sell.
Spend a few dollars on proper blueprints and specs.
Give the contractor a set of A sheets with no chat...
and then see what price you get.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #9
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I will not be using thin walled pipe!

After looking at the difference and actually putting my hands on the pipe, I am very surprised that that thin walled C#*p gets used anywhere.

solid core SCH 40 all around, I can also save a bit of $ by buying 20 ft joints vs 10 ft joints.

The drawings I provided the pro plumbers are 1/4 scale if they cant or dont get proper dimentions from a scale drawing then I dont know what to tell them. These drawings were more than my local bldg. dpt. required.

The drawing on the drawings were done by me after I saw the prices they wanted for plumbing install and I wanted to see if I could lay it out and have a hard number on fittings and location.

I installed my batter boards this weekend and started layout. Think I will find a couple of laborers and start digging.

Maybe someone could look a bit closer at the drawings and let me know if something does not look right Im not looking for a quote now, I have decided to DIY.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
I will always bid high to HO 's who act as GC's and supply materials. They are notorious for being unorganized, off schedule and never have all the parts. This costs me time which is money.
Good luck with your project.

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Respectfully, my time is also valuable. I am not average joe homeowner NOR a professional builder but I have worked in construction for 25 years and I have never done large scale plumbing. I would never intentionally waste a tradesmans time or money.

Maybe I could find/hire a plumbing consultant. Kind of a private inspector for my work.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:15 PM   #11
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I am not average joe homeowner NOR a professional builder...
which is worse in the eyes of contractors.
They know how to deal with the other two.

but I have worked in construction for 25 years...
Good for you. But they don't know you down there.
You're an unknown quantity. UQ's get charged more or ignored.

Maybe I could find/hire a plumbing consultant.
Or... get a draftsman to prepare A sheets and specs.
Then submit these on their own.

hth
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:17 AM   #12
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This job is a maximum 50 hrs with 16 fixtures from rough in to top out
How are you able to estimate plumbing labor?

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