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chickenlady 03-14-2008 08:26 PM

need help with capping a copper pipe
I have a automatic cattle/horse waterer. I don't use it and need to make a cracked fitting that is leaking, into a capped pipe to make it nonfunctional and winter proof. The pipe that comes up from the ground has several fittings and a shut off valve. It goes from copper to metal to plastic to a rubber hose. I am not sure why but I think a farmer was making it work however he needed. I just want to cut the copper pipe and cap if off. Does anyone have any ideas? I have never soldered a pipe and I wondered if there is a simpler solution to this or do I have to solder to make it work? Thanks anyone who can help.:huh:

End Grain 03-14-2008 08:40 PM

In the event that you do not want to sweat a cap onto the copper tubing/pipe, consider this. You can buy a brass compression fitting that has the correct copper tubing size on one end and a male pipe thread on the other end. You can buy the corresponding pipe cap to fit onto it. However!!!! You will have to tighten the cap onto the brass fitting BEFORE you attach the compression end onto the copper tubing/pipe. Compression fittings - no matter how tightly secured - will spin on the tubing under that kind of tightening and ruin the seal. Also, the copper tubing/pipe simply can't take that kind of torque. If you do it as I have suggested, you will have a watertight seal. Now, as for freezing, the water flowing out to that tubing/pipe should be shut off, presumably in or near a building so that the line itself does not freeze, capped or otherwise.

Ron The Plumber 03-14-2008 08:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
If it's 1/2" or 3/4" or 1", get a Shark Bite Cap, no soldering, no truning wrenches, push on and go.

chickenlady 03-14-2008 09:03 PM

Thanks you both I appreciate the help. The line that goes to the waterer is an underground line. I usually pack the waterer box its self full of insulation and haven't had a problem until now. The problem I have is if i shut the water off to the underground line then I don't have any water for the chicken coop because they are on the same line. Do you think it will be alright if I wrap it with the foam pipe insulation and then pack it full of the roll type insulation? There is the option the cut the line close to the ground lower than it is now. Once again thanks for the advice. I will see what I can find. Are those shark caps found at a regular hardware store? Thanks :yes:

frodo601 03-14-2008 09:04 PM

hi ron, i have not used the sharkbite fittens yet,are they worth a damn . will they be around for more than a minute or two. i personally like the propress system, but dont think a rubber o rtng will last 20 years frodo

Ron The Plumber 03-14-2008 09:09 PM

Don't the propress depend on an o-ring it's self. the shark bites are great IMO, I will not conceal them in walls, they are code approved here.


I'm sure you can find them at a Home Depot .

chickenlady 03-14-2008 09:12 PM

Thanks so much ron the plumber!! i apprecite it I will go to home depot tomorrow. Do these work on all types of pipe? Plastic, metal and copper? Just curious for future refrence. You never know what is going to blow down on the farm LOL:whistling2:

Ron The Plumber 03-14-2008 09:14 PM

They work on Copper, CPVC and Pex pipe

chickenlady 03-14-2008 09:21 PM

Sounds good. I will fix this tomorrow, what do you think about the insulation? I just don't want it to freeze underground and up to it. Do you think I am going to be okay with the insulation <I live in Nebraska> or or do you think i should have a shut off installed to that line by a plumber?:wink:

Ron The Plumber 03-14-2008 09:25 PM

Ane pipe that could to freeze should be insulated.

chickenlady 03-14-2008 09:29 PM

Thanks I will let you know how it turns out!! I appreciate your help... :thumbup:

kdhock 03-14-2008 10:57 PM

Message to Ron The Plumber
Hello, I am trying to reach you directly to ask you which brand thread compound you recommend. If it matters, I am threading IPS fittings into a rough in shower valve. I am torn between Megaloc by Hercules or Rectorseal #5 (I think). Could you please help. It would be best if you could email me your response.

Thank you.

By the way - I truly enjoyed reading all of yoru posts on teflon versus compound.

Marlin 03-15-2008 06:19 AM

For gas lines I use just Megaloc, for just about everything else I use Megaloc with a couple wraps of teflon on top of it. Some guys prefer the Reactorseal, Pro Dope, or one of many other types out there. It really doesn't matter so long as you tighten everything enough.

One other tip on the shower bodies. Solder the male adapters to short pieces of copper pipe before threaded them into the shower body. This way you avoid heating the joint containing pipe dope and creating the potential for a leak.

Ron The Plumber 03-15-2008 07:04 AM

Ditto what Marlin just said.

Ron The Plumber 03-15-2008 07:16 AM


Originally Posted by Marlin (Post 107811)
For gas lines I use just Megaloc, for just about everything else I use Megaloc

:laughing: You could have typed a few less words if you would have just said I use Megaloc for everything. :laughing:

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