need to change ejector pump
Hello everyone, new member here, and new homeowner, looking for some help, I will try to be as detailed as possible
tried to flush toilet, noticed bubbles and seemed weird, checked the "little giant high water alarm" we have for our ejector pump and upon further inspection the breaker was tripped on my panel, i removed the pump plug from the switch piggyback and it trips it immediately, after speaking to a few people, it's either a) clogged or b) pump is fried
the pump itself:
it looks like there are 2x 2" PVC pipes coming from the pump basin - left is a vent, right is the actual waste line, both pipes have turn handles, and the waste line looks like it has a check valve as well
what is the best and proper way to do everything
- do I have to cut the pipes?
- can I turn both handles to render them inactive, and unscrew them, etc
- do you think the pit top is siliconed in addition to being bolted down?
- what is the likelihood of extreme water overflow once I take the top off
- I'm going to go out and buy a new pump regardless of it it's clogged or fried, guy that re-built the house in 2008 used about the cheapest everything in and for everything - new homeowner (cut me some slack, learned huge invaluable lessons for the next house)
- I have a wet/dry vac on standby incase anything does spill over
So, anyway, my real questions - I have no real plumbing experience, fairly handy DIY'er so I'm going to attempt this myself as I dont feel like paying the $900+ quotes I got for it
If you could post a couple pics of what you have we could better help you. Thanks.
let's see if those show up
might not be embedding, but if u click it should work
Turn the pump power off and unplug it.
Turn off both ball valves.
Place a clothes hanger on your nose.
Remove the check valve and undo the no hub clamp on the vent
Remove the lid
Replace pump then put mess back together.
It is not fun.
Make sure you do not destroy your rubber seal on the lid. You will need to find a replacement. SIlcon it will only make it a bigger mess next time around. Purchase the exact same model pump that is installed.
Also wear what you can toss and make sure you take a long hot shower after...
turn off both ball valves -- assuming you mean the blue handles?
clothes hanger, check :)
remove the check valve lid - how? does it just screw off?
undo the hub clamp - assuking this is the 2 clamps on the vent side
do i have to remove any of the bolts on the lid?
do i have to re-attach a new piece of PVC from the pump to the check valve? how difficult is that? is it just a matter of measuring and using the glue / cleaner?
sorry for all the questions, im sure its easy and fairly self explanatory once i take it apart, just first time doing this so want to have as much info going in as possible
also, i have a high water alarm, is it easy to hook that back up to the pump?
thanks for your help!
edit: any reason I should buy the exact same model pump that is installed?
as long as it is a 2" ejector pump, what is the difference?
You need one or two very large Crescent wrenches or a strap wrench to unscrew the cap on that check valve----only unscrew the bottom one---or you will get wet
Who ever installed that put the check valve rather low on that pipe----It's going to be a pain to get the lid off---
Yes, you need to remove all of the hex head screws---lid might have silicone under it---
If I was doing that one---I'd pop open the backflow by shoving a screwdriver up into it after the bottom is opened---drain the pipe and raise the back flow a foot or so.
Then add a new pump riser pipe to make up the difference--
I always replace that riser pipe when installing a new pump because I have had the old threaded fitting crack to many times in the past.
The lid looks like it is bolted down there should be a rubber gasket under it that makes the air tight seal. There is also gaskets where the pipe enters and the cord.
The check valve has 2 big white plastic nuts that unscrew with gaskets under them.
When you do that you will get some waste water out of the pipe.
The reason you should stick with the same model pump is so it is easy to swap out. If you change it you may need to add or remove pipe on the discharge side of your sump below the check. Just use glue coupling if you have to do this with glue of course and primer.
Your high water alarm should be just tie wrapped onto something in the pit its a float.
Diffrent pumps have diffrent lifts make sure you match the GPM and head of the old pump.
Put down a water proof drop cloth and wear disposable water tight gloves too.
Also have a large trash bag handy to set the old pump into so it doesn't drip on your stairs going out :)
Don't forget the clothes pin for your nose....
thanks for the tips, boy did that stink!!!
took alot more time than I anticipated, had a few bumps in the road as they say
for some reason wasnt able to just slide the check valve off, maybe I did something wrong?
ended up having to saw off above it, use a coupler and new piece of PVC pipe, but got the job done
for future servicing / maintenance, is there a way to remove the checkvalve properly?
Usually you just unscrew them and they slide right off the pipe. Not sure what happened there. Going forward, they make fernco check valves and couplings which are used for this purpose, so you can easily change out the pump next time.
thanks for quick reply
what would i need to do then? i have a strap wrench
both of the threaded areas (top and bottom) were loose - so what would i do from there?
i couldnt slide it off downwards as there isnt enough play with the pvc pipe to allow me to do so
Check out this video. This person had a tight fit as well but like you he made it work. May or may not help in your situation.
check valve installation
checked that out, thanks, but he uses a rubber check valve, i have a pvc check valve (he removed it by cutting it with a box cutter)
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