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-   -   Need Advice on how to Correct Low Water Pressure (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/need-advice-how-correct-low-water-pressure-137324/)

Joe Tilghman 03-17-2012 10:40 AM

Need Advice on how to Correct Low Water Pressure
 
I am renting a house that we found after we got in that has low water pressure. I can't live with this so I need to correct it.

I went under the house to see what is up.

I know one of my first problems the cold water feed out of the H/W heater is a 1/2" line and should be 3/4"

There is a 2" feed line from the city. i have aalready checked to the shutoff valve at the meter it is all the on.

There is a 3/4" line coming out of the H/W heater for hot water which transitions to 1/2" about 10' out.

All of the feed lines are 1/2" to the fixtures with about 30+' runs to each.
What I need now is some advice on how to correct this the most economical way.

1. Use a maniblock manifold and utilize existing 1/2" feed lines.

2. Use remote manifilds fed by 3/4" feeds from hot and cold.

3. Use the branch and tee method.

some detailed explanation would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

Bondo 03-17-2012 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Tilghman (Post 879494)
I am renting a house that we found after we got in that has low water pressure. I can't live with this so I need to correct it.

I went under the house to see what is up.

I know one of my first problems the cold water feed out of the H/W heater is a 1/2" line and should be 3/4"

There is a 2" feed line from the city. i have aalready checked to the shutoff valve at the meter it is all the on.

There is a 3/4" line coming out of the H/W heater for hot water which transitions to 1/2" about 10' out.

All of the feed lines are 1/2" to the fixtures with about 30+' runs to each.
What I need now is some advice on how to correct this the most economical way.

1. Use a maniblock manifold and utilize existing 1/2" feed lines.

2. Use remote manifilds fed by 3/4" feeds from hot and cold.

3. Use the branch and tee method.

some detailed explanation would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

Ayuh,.... Plumb in a Gauge, 'n see how much pressure is bein' fed from the city....
'n, Are ya sure that's a 2" line,..?? I've never seen bigger than 1" in residential hook-ups...

If the pressure provided by the city is low, Nothing you mention will Fix, Anything...
And,....
Yer a Tenant,....
If my tenant decided to just start replumbin' My rental,....:eek:
He'd be lookin' for another place to call home....:furious:

Ravenworks 03-17-2012 11:48 AM

I would ask the owner of the home about this first before you do anything.
As suggested you should check the supply line with a gauge first.

diyslfr 03-17-2012 12:01 PM

calm down
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondo (Post 879508)
Ayuh,.... Plumb in a Gauge, 'n see how much pressure is bein' fed from the city....
'n, Are ya sure that's a 2" line,..?? I've never seen bigger than 1" in residential hook-ups...

If the pressure provided by the city is low, Nothing you mention will Fix, Anything...
And,....
Yer a Tenant,....
If my tenant decided to just start replumbin' My rental,....:eek:
He'd be lookin' for another place to call home....:furious:

I just LUV some of the editorializing some of these responders engage in while answering. It's like 'Yeah I'll answer but here's a slap in the face while I'm at it cause I know something you want to know and if you don't put up with my smartellic attidude I won't help you.'

Seen it a bunch on these sites.

joecaption 03-17-2012 12:07 PM

And was he wrong? I know if I cought one of my renters doing it without my permision, and knowing that they were doing they would be out.

diyslfr 03-17-2012 12:20 PM

I'll let my statement speak for itself and believe it or not I'm not here to argue just wanted to make that point cause the very first post I read was that smartbutt response and like I said I see it too much. So nuff said on the subject imho.

Plumber101 03-17-2012 03:57 PM

At least my tenants know that if they don't call me for repairs and if they try to fix something, Unless under extreme emergency, that they will be billed for the repair.

There is a reason they are tenant's, whether, good, bad or indifferent there is a reason.

And the property they are in is MINE not THEIR's.

Joe Tilghman 03-17-2012 07:37 PM

Look guys I didn't want to start a debate on owner tenant law. My question was what was the best way to correct the problem.

I have the owners permission to correct the problem they are od and don't have the funds to pay fo the work.

One answer was provided check the incoming water pressure. Where is this done and does a city normally do this?

Thanks for any helpful replys.

burnt03 03-17-2012 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Tilghman (Post 879778)
Look guys I didn't want to start a debate on owner tenant law. My question was what was the best way to correct the problem.

I have the owners permission to correct the problem they are od and don't have the funds to pay fo the work.

One answer was provided check the incoming water pressure. Where is this done and does a city normally do this?

Thanks for any helpful replys.

Check the pressure with a normal pressure gauge screwed to a hose fitting. Might want to call the city anyways to see what street pressure is at your address, they might come out and check it for you.

Pressure at hose fitting should be anywhere from 45-65 psi.

joecaption 03-17-2012 08:52 PM

You have removed and checked all the airiators on the faucets to see if there pluged up and removed the showed head to see if there's a low flow restrictor in the head.

Homerepairguy 03-17-2012 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Tilghman (Post 879778)
One answer was provided check the incoming water pressure. Where is this done and does a city normally do this?

The only places where you will be able to check water pressure are at faucets with a threaded connection that can be water tight. Typically a hose bib connection.

Buy a water pressure gauge that has a hose bib connector and has a maximum reading of about 200 psi. Incoming water pressure from the city will be less than 200 psi and ideally you want about 60 psi in your house so don't buy a pressure gauge with a really high max reading since that will compromise the accuracy of your water pressure readings.

Theoretically, "static" water pressure will be the same at any hose bib you use, regardless of the diameter of the pipe feeding it. I just connect the pressure gauge to the hose bib closest to the input water line because it makes it easier to adjust the water pressure regulator.

You will have to determine whether there is a water pressure regulator in the main line on your property. This water pressure regulator is maintained by the property, not the city. If there is one, then loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw and turn the adjusting screw to see if the water pressure gauge reading changes. Be sure to count the turns so you can return to the original setting if need be. If the water pressure reading does not change, the pressure regulator is not working properly. If the reading changes, adjust for 60 psi.

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images...-5731-3809.jpg
Typical water pressure regulator (reducing valve).

If the pressure regulator is working but the max pressure is less than 60 psi, call your city and ask them what the water pressure they are supplying to your house is.

Volume of water flow is a different story. That's related to the diameter of the water pipe. I can tell you that with our water pressure regulator adjusted to 60 psi and 3/4" trunk lines feeding our bathrooms, the volume of water flow from the faucets are fine. Of course if someone on the same trunk line opens another faucet, the water temperature while taking a shower will change. 1" trunk lines would be better but not really necessary in my opinion. 1/2" trunk lines are too small as you already alluded to.

HRG

Joe Tilghman 03-17-2012 09:40 PM

to answer a couple of responses, the fixtures are all new the shower head is a year old but was fine in the apartment I was using it in prior to moving into this house.

If the water in the tub in running and you flush the toilet the water in the tub is a trickle.'

I will get a preasure guage and test at the hose bib which is not far from the feed line and then check the pressure regulator. I can see the feed line from the meter coming up in the crawl space and I could see the pressure regulator.

I could see the feed line it may not have been 2" but it was at least 11/4".

Everything I have read says both feed lines at the HW heater should be 3/4" as stated before the cold water feed at the water heater is 1/2" this can't be helping,

Daniel Holzman 03-18-2012 08:56 AM

That was an excellent summary by Homerepairguy. Just a couple things I might add. You need to measure pressure when there is no flow in the house, you want static pressure. The pressure upstairs is going to be lower than the pressure downstairs by about 5 psi per floor, this is normal.

If the pressure is normal, but the flow is too low, this typically indicates a restriction somewhere in the system, but use of 1/2 inch pipe by itself is not going to cause such a drastic effect. Old pipe that is internally corroded and mostly blocked will definitely cause flow reduction, but as Homeguy said, will NOT reduce static pressure.

Joe Tilghman 03-18-2012 02:17 PM

I bought a pressure guage and connected it to the hose bib closest to the water feed from the street the pressure at the bib was 60+ psi so I guess that rules out the water pressure regulator and the psi from the city doesn't it??

This house is a 1 story ranch hot cold fixture in the kitchen, hot cold for the shower and bathroom sink cold for the toilet plus two hose bibs.

i was going to check the pressure at the kitchen sink but got the wrong size adaptor plan to take it back and do that test.

Is some of my problem that i have a 1/2 cold feed from the W/H and the entire house is plumbed in 1/2 PEX??

Any advice/recomendations to correct this would be appreciated.

What i was also thinkink about doing was plumbing to the bathroom with 3/4 pex with a remote manifold and then connect the existing 1/2 from the fixtures. I can live with the lower pressure at the other fixtures but I woud like to increase prussure in the shower.

Daniel Holzman 03-18-2012 02:48 PM

60 psi is normal pressure, so you have ruled out a problem at the source. Check the static pressure at the bad fixtures, my guess is they are going to be OK. The problem is likely a blockage or reduction in pipe diameter, or a corroded or stuck valve somewhere. By itself, use of 1/2 inch pipe cannot cause such a severe problem. There must be a blockage somewhere in the system, my guess is one or more shutoff valves are partially blocked, but it could be in the pipe. Before you begin a major upgrade, manifolds, new PEX etc., find and correct the blockage, then see how things sit.


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