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J187 04-18-2009 07:52 PM

My closet flange is too high?
I am taking up my tile floor in the bathroom and I'm going to retile. The tile floor in the bathroom is considerably higher than the hall floor and I found that not only has tile been tiled over tile Which was tiled over tile, but the mortar bed below is really thick. The problem is, my closet flange sits a full 1 3/4" off my plywood subfloor. I was going to use 1/4" hardie and a 1/4" tile. The Flange is cast iron... the flange is going to be too high for me, right? I mean, even I bump up to 1/2" backer it will still be too high, right? What is the highest the flange can sit atop of the finished floor?

majakdragon 04-18-2009 08:25 PM

Bottom line is that it has to sit "on" the flooring. It should also be attached to the floor with screws. Hopefully, you have access to the area under the floor and can cut the cast iron pipe and lower the flange to fit your new tile height.

al's sewer 04-18-2009 09:05 PM

The bottom of the flange should be sitting on the finish floor.
the only way to fix that is to take the flange out and lower it. My suggestion find an older plumber use to working with cast iron and have him fix it. he would probably be over 50 to have enough of experince to work on cast iron. I am 55 and they were phasing out cast iron when I came into the trade in the 70's. Although it is still used on some commercial jobs for noise reasons. It is much quieter than pvc.

J187 04-18-2009 09:51 PM

I cannot afford a plumber right now. Guess I'll be raising tfe floor.

J187 04-19-2009 08:43 AM

Is this my only option?

metx 04-19-2009 09:05 AM

I am in the trade in new york .and 42 all we use is cast ..

HWConstruction 04-19-2009 09:09 AM

Is the bath on a slab, crawl or basement? Can you get to the cast pipe?

majakdragon 04-19-2009 09:13 AM

It is not your your only option if you have access under the house. You could cut the cast iron and put a No-hub or Fernco coupling and switch to PVC. This way you could lower the flange to the proper height.

al's sewer 04-19-2009 09:44 AM

no its not your only option.As stated above if the pipe is accessable from underneath you can try doing it yourself by cutting out the cast iron and replacing with pvc Using either a fernco or no hub band. If you decide to do this I would recommend using a transition no hub band to go from 4 inch pvc to 4 inch cast iron. The reason for this is the pvc is slightly thicker than the cast and it makes the transition look and work better as the thickness difference is corrected in the no hub band. This is of course you are working with 4 inch pipe which most likely you are. The transition no hubs are available in other pipe sizes also.

J187 04-19-2009 10:06 AM

Split level home I have access. Now I have to make a decision.., thanks guys!

al's sewer 04-19-2009 10:10 AM


Originally Posted by metx (Post 262254)
I am in the trade in new york .and 42 all we use is cast ..

Yes I know it is still used in commercial building alot for noise and fire regulations I was simply reffering to residential plumbing. although it might still be being used in some areas for residential.

majakdragon 04-19-2009 10:13 AM

Depending on the age of your home, the cast iron may be connected with No-hub couplings. I did a lot of jobs like that in the early 70's. You would still need to get a cast iron to PVC coupling. If the cast iron is hub type, with poured lead joints, it is a bit more work.

RegeSullivan 04-19-2009 02:08 PM

Can you post a picture from under the floor and one from above? This may not be as complected as you think.

II Weeks 04-20-2009 06:30 AM

<~~ not a fan of hardy boards in bathrooms. Consider putting down a mud floor of portland and sand.( 5 parts sand, 1 part cement) You can perfectly level the floor and and its a much better base for tile and you can raise your floor that way.

metx 04-20-2009 07:42 AM

first make sure what it is .lead or cast .if cast it is connected with a nohub or frenco .if lead it is sweated on the ferell .

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