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EastCoast Jim 04-19-2010 06:18 PM

moving some abs plumbing
Good Evening. New to the site, so please bear with me. We are (I) putting in a basement bathroom. 15 years ago the rough in was done but of course not where we want to put the fixtures. I have broken out the cement and have the piping exposed. Now I need to do 2 things.

- I need to redirect the existing 3" piping for the toiler about 180 degrees. The exposed pieces that I have are all couplings as it comes out from under the main central footing in the house. I cnnot access from the othr side as it is a finished room. I would like to cut off 1/2 of the 45 degree coupling I can access and connect from it. Is thier a coupler available I can use for this?

-part 2- I have broken the cement out to put in a shower/bath drain. Existing drain is 1 1/2". Is this large enough? Finally how do I determine proper placement of the top of the P-trap/shoer drain to accomodate flooring and flooring insulation that I will be layiong down?

Thanks for any help you can provide.


Alan 04-20-2010 09:07 AM

Part 1 :

I'm a little confused. Some pictures would help with some notations to help.

What kind of fitting were you wanting to put on the 45* that you're going to cut in half? :huh:

Part 2 :

for a tub/shower combo, your 1-1/2 drain is fine. As far as placement, they all vary due to design differences. What you need to do is build a box out of plywood ~12x12 to 'box out' where your p-trap is going to go. Most times one side of the box will line up almost exactly with the edge of the wall where the drain is going to go. Then you need to cut a notch in it where the pipe is going INTO the box. Fill the box with something, sand/gravel, etc so that you don't accidentally spill some concrete into it.

When you get your concrete poured and wall up, you can dig out the sand or gravel or whatever you put in there, and expose the pipe. pull the plywood out to give yourself some more room. Once you expose the pipe, you can install the fiberglass tub/shower. Secure it, and fabricate a waste/overflow assembly. Once that is done, you have to hook up the trap from underneath. It is a pain in the rear end 100%, but that is how we do it. :whistling2::thumbup:

EastCoast Jim 04-20-2010 04:16 PM

Re plumbing
Thanks Alan on the shower. Makes great sense and have lots of room.

I'll charge up the batteries and take some pics, but in the meantime on part 1 of my problem. What it comes down to is that between the elbows, which start underneath the footing, there is not enough 3" pipe between them to start a new run, once the existing 45 degree elbows are cut. I'm wondering if there is a coupler that, if I cut off elbow at the 1/2 point where it begins to turn, that would fit over the exterior of that elbow that I could clamp/glue in place?



Alan 04-20-2010 10:03 PM

I wouldn't do that. There are too many things stamped onto the fitting that could cause enough of an imperfection in the glue joint to leak.

Your best bet is probably to cut off the entire fitting except for the hub on the end that you want to keep. Very carefully cut through the hub in multiple points and if you can get to the glue between you should be able to get the 'hub' to split away from the pipe. I know it sounds like a pain, but it has worked for me in the past. Hopefully someone else has an easier plan.

Is there any way to do it without cutting off the fittings? :huh:

EastCoast Jim 04-21-2010 05:19 AM

I don't think so as the piping is headed in the other direction currently. I'll try the cutaway approach. Other than a little time, I won't be out a thing.



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