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Old 02-04-2011, 11:48 PM   #1
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Moving basement washer to first floor issues

I currently have my laundry in the basement and would love to move it upstairs in our ranch home. The problem Iím facing is the new location is directly across from the current location, only itís 25 feet away and the washer and dryer will back into an exterior wall. Iíve already framed the laundry and left 5Ē of space between the stud wall and the current drywall (previously finished room). Iím not worried about venting the dryer as Iím going to simply run the vent down into the basement a few inches, 90 degree elbow and out through the board above the cinder blocks. Whatís killing me is draining and venting the grey waste water from the washing machine.

The current basement laundry is against the cinder block wall and has 1.5Ē PVC which ties into the kitchen sink and dishwasher directly above it (see photo). They both run into a PVC pipe that goes into the basement floor. Whatís very weird is that this PVC pipe goes straight up about 3 feet, 45 degrees for about 6 feet, 45 degree again and then out of the basement to the outside. The roof gutter directly above it drains right into this! Is this some type of dual purpose vent/gutter drain? The house was built in 1987.
My dilemma is how Iím going to drain the washing machine and vent it. I would like to finish my basement in the coming months and donít want to sacrifice ceiling height. I measured and can drop the PVC a half inch per foot for the 25 foot running with the floor joists in the ceiling, which Iíve read should suffice. Is a 25 foot run allowed as long as the vent is close? Now for the bad part, venting. If I go straight up into the ceiling, once in the attic I will basically be hitting the roof slope as Iím next to an exterior wall and the trusses hit the header there. I can manage, but it will be a bear with the loose fill fiberglass and my head clearance. Once in the attic the closet vent I can tie into is almost 25 feet away so I will have to run PVC over to it and tap into it. That will be fun.

One option I am considering to mitigate the pain of installing that vent is using a studor vent. While itís not preferred from reading on the net, it would make this much easier. Also, my current washing machine only has a 1.5Ē PVC and itís a new, He washer that uses very little water. I will be upgrading this to 2Ē PVC. My fear is if the studor vent fails and doesnít let vent in, that the washing machine would overflow. I would imagine that using 2Ē PVC instead would allow for plenty of air to enter the drain at the point where the washing machine waste hose sits in the drain. This would be a just in case the studor vent fails that it should still be able to pull vent. If I do use a studor I will make a small access panel to change it out every few years, just in case.

If the studor is the way to go, what size/kind do you recommend? Iím in Ohio and have read that they are ok to use.

Thank you very much for any help!

(If facing the current washer in the basement, the new one will be directly
behind you, 25 feet away on the first floor)


mazeroth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 01:16 AM   #2
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Could you use an AAV right next to the washer drain box? I've seen it in plumbing handbook. I can work my way through a lot of things, but I'm dumb when it comes to "codes"


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Old 02-05-2011, 09:10 AM   #3
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Use 2 inch pipe for the washing machine drain. Even though the machine might not use much water, the draining water may come out fast enough that a 1-1/2 inch drain is not good enough.

The hose must not be taped or sealed onto the mouth of the drain pipe. Because of the trap, the mouth of the pipe itself does not act as a vent.

I would go ahead and use the Studor vent (AAV).
The good conscientious technician or serviceperson will carry extra oils and lubricants in case the new pump did not come with oil or the oil was accidentally spilled, so the service call can be completed without an extra visit.

Last edited by AllanJ; 02-05-2011 at 09:15 AM.
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