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Old 07-29-2010, 12:26 PM   #61
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Hmmm, even with the adapter tight, it still seems pretty sloppy. I think I need a reducing coupler that the small one can glue down to. This is what I'm planning for the main exit stack NOW. Things keep changing, and I have to rethink everything.... heh heh But it's OK, I'll get through this. There will be vents at all fixtures up to the attic and then attached *somehow* to the main 4" stack. Does this setup look OK?

Thanks guys!

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Old 07-29-2010, 12:28 PM   #62
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JINX! -=chuckle=- Yup, I figured that reducing coupler out all by my lonesome! woohoo! LOL
So how's the main stack look to you?

Po)

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Old 07-29-2010, 12:45 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
re: the tub drain:

Do not use that 2 " adapter you have in the top of the 2" trap. Instead bush (2" to 1-1/2" bushing)the trap down to 1-1/2", short piece of pipe, then 1-1/2" trap adapter.
I'm trying to visuallize what you are describing, but I'm not sure that I got it.

I also need to reduce from 2" into 1 1/2" only in the opposite direction (a 2" drain into a 1 1/2" soil pipe) and I would like to know the best way to reduce it. I've seen Ferncos that reduce from 2" to 1 1/2", should I just use that (since I will need a Fernco to attach to the existing pipe anyway?
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:55 PM   #64
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I'll be looking for a 1" to 2" (DWV) bushing/adapter/coupler/whatever and using that to make the transition.

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Old 07-29-2010, 01:02 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
I'll be looking for a 1" to 2" (DWV) bushing/adapter/coupler/whatever and using that to make the transition.

DM
Is that the best method for good flow? I've seen a reducer that was as simple as a small ring that fits into the 2" female end and then you slide the 1 1/2" pipe into the reduce and glue it up, but I wasn't sure if there was a better way.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:07 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proby View Post
I'm trying to visuallize what you are describing, but I'm not sure that I got it.

I also need to reduce from 2" into 1 1/2" only in the opposite direction (a 2" drain into a 1 1/2" soil pipe) and I would like to know the best way to reduce it. I've seen Ferncos that reduce from 2" to 1 1/2", should I just use that (since I will need a Fernco to attach to the existing pipe anyway?
Not sure why you want to take a 2" drain into a 1-1/2" soil pipe?

The bushing looks like a donut; the outside is the OD of a 2" pipe, the donut hole is the size of a 1-1/2" pipe. You glue it intyo a 2 " fitting and then insert a 1-1/2" pipe into it. They come in different sizes.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:09 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proby View Post
Is that the best method for good flow? I've seen a reducer that was as simple as a small ring that fits into the 2" female end and then you slide the 1 1/2" pipe into the reduce and glue it up, but I wasn't sure if there was a better way.
You are describing a bushing. It is by far the cheapest and easiest way to change sizes.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:46 PM   #68
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Proby: It does seem odd to have to reduce the drainage rather than increase it.... is that even code?

Anyhoo... how does that main-drain stack look?
Do the toilet drainpipe (4") runs have to have a slight slant as well as the drains? Or can they be more or less straight?

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Old 07-29-2010, 02:11 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
Not sure why you want to take a 2" drain into a 1-1/2" soil pipe?
I know it's not the best idea, but for now I have to install a shower stall where a tub used to be (there are leaking problems so it has to be done). So I have to adapt the 2" shower stall drain into a 1 1/2" drain pipe. In the future when I have the extra funds to redo my kitchen underneath, I will have the ceiling and walls open and run the 2" pipe the whole way into the basement.
Quote:
The bushing looks like a donut; the outside is the OD of a 2" pipe, the donut hole is the size of a 1-1/2" pipe. You glue it intyo a 2 " fitting and then insert a 1-1/2" pipe into it. They come in different sizes.
So a bushing is the best way to reduce? Better than the Fernco reducer? I'm only concerned because the bushing has what seems to be a "hub" inside of it where something could get caught. While the Fernco is more of a sloping ramp.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:21 PM   #70
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Yeah, I think it'd be a good idea to do that soon.
The large to small could clog pretty easily with or without the Fernco.

Po)

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Old 07-29-2010, 02:27 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
Yeah, I think it'd be a good idea to do that soon.
The large to small could clog pretty easily with or without the Fernco.

Po)

DM
Hey, if you could loan me the $75K that I need to build the kitchen to my wife's specs, I'll do it tomorrow
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:36 PM   #72
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Hey, no problem! As soon as I win the lottery tomorrow, I'll be happy to!
0% interest even!

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Old 07-29-2010, 02:48 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proby View Post
I know it's not the best idea, but for now I have to install a shower stall where a tub used to be (there are leaking problems so it has to be done). So I have to adapt the 2" shower stall drain into a 1 1/2" drain pipe. In the future when I have the extra funds to redo my kitchen underneath, I will have the ceiling and walls open and run the 2" pipe the whole way into the basement.
I am assuming you are not getting permits or inspections for this work. No inspector will sympathize with you and let it pass. Seems that the leaking issues could be addressed without a complete change-out to a shower.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:51 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
I am assuming you are not getting permits or inspections for this work. No inspector will sympathize with you and let it pass. Seems that the leaking issues could be addressed without a complete change-out to a shower.
It could, but the plan is to install a shower in there and since the leaking issue involves ripping the walls and the tub out from the shower area, it makes sense to do it this way.

As for inspectors, we have mutual agreements. The day my 1/2" small temporary drain hurts someone is the same day I'll feel bad.
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:02 PM   #75
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Okiedoke! Here's what all of the drains underneath in the crawl will look like more or less.... Longer 2" pvc will replace short scraps holding it together where needed.
2"X2"X1" vent tees will be placed appropriately in the lines where needed. (not shown because I don't HAVE them yet...) I'm thinking I'm getting close now, Thanks to you all.... Po)

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