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Old 07-28-2010, 10:06 AM   #46
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DM,

What is the construction of your home? Are you on a slab? Or crawl space/basement? If you can get below the sink (crawl or basement) the sink drain should go straight down. I understand taking the vent to the side to avoid the window but why the drain? IMO, if you can get under the sink a clean out goes in the crawl or basement, if you are on a slab- what is the point of a clean out and where would you put it?

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Old 07-28-2010, 10:10 AM   #47
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@ Proby, unions, slip joints, and compression fittings must be readily accessible.
Gotcha, kinda like electrical junction boxes

I am assuming "no hubs" don't have to be accessible?

I see two different style no hubs, one is just a rubber sleeve, smooth on the inside, and a pair of pipe clamps on each side of it. The second is a rubber sleeve with a ridge in the middle (so the pipe could only go halfway in) and a full metal sleeve around it with a pair of integrated pipe clamps on each end.

Is one recommended over the other?

Sorry, I just realized I hijacked your thread DangerMouse.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:15 AM   #48
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Crawl space. That's why I want to keep the drain up top as far as possible before it goes underneath.
Even with insulation, it "could" freeze. However, as tight as I made the new outside wall and with the 6" of insulation boxed in down there, it should be much warmer down there in the winter now. Po) I SUPPOSE I could go straight down and run the 2" drain below, but it's a #@!!#@ trying to work in 2' of room....

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Old 07-28-2010, 07:24 PM   #49
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DM, no reason you can't center your drain on your sink at the back of cabinet and then offset your vent into the wall under the window. You then elbow horizontally to one side of window and turn vertical up through your top plate. Just a lote of fittings.

If your kitchen sink should back up, its much easier to set your cable machine on the floor in front of the cabinet. If your clean out is in a crawl you then have drag that 50lb machine to that location- not fun. Code in my region says clean outs in crawls shall be within 20ft of access hole.

@ Proby, your right, N.H. bands do not need to be accessible. They are the industry standard for joining no hub cast iron and I prefer them over "ferncos" which are the rubber sleeves without stops or shield. But ferncos do have their use, especially in underground sewer work
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:28 PM   #50
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Ok, so you are saying to use the type with the full metal sleeve around it for a shower drain?

Thanks for the help!

Sorry again DM
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:35 PM   #51
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You will be fine with either one. The all rubber one(fernco) is more forgiving, easier to work with. Just be sure to support the pipe well
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:40 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Ok, so you are saying to use the type with the full metal sleeve around it for a shower drain?

Thanks for the help!

Sorry again DM
NP... it's all good....

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Old 07-28-2010, 07:45 PM   #53
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Hey ePlumber, do you have a pdf of typical fiberglass tub install?

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Old 07-28-2010, 08:13 PM   #54
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Quote:
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Hey ePlumber, do you have a pdf of typical fiberglass tub install?

DM
nope 'fraid not. Try google.
I have installed several though. So have your people call my people and do lunch
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:01 AM   #55
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I'M my 'people', so where's the nearest Mc-D's we can meet at? LOL

OK, I'm closest I believe with this picture. 1"X1"X2" sanitary tee for drain and vent, 6" at least for the trap arm.
I'm just having a hard time figuring out why a 1" trap arm has to turn into a 2" drain? Hmmmm. That's why I was just going to use 1" for the drains all around. But I'll do WHATEVER is necessary to pass the inspections!

Thanks again!

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Old 07-29-2010, 09:08 AM   #56
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DM,

Looks like you are there.

Before you run 2" for the drain, I would call and ask your inspector. Inch and a half would pass in my area and it might in yours. May save you buying more materials.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:29 AM   #57
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I really don't mind the overkill even if 1" drains is ok, I have 40' of 2" and 20' or 30' of 1". Using the 1" for vents is cheapest for me, since I'm just buying the appropriate fittings and maybe one more 10' section.... Besides.... what if ALL the sinks are draining at the same time? lol
I know, I know.... not likely... but still.....

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Old 07-29-2010, 10:36 AM   #58
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Next question: How the heck do I adapt the 1" drain kit from the tub to the 2" drain below the floor? The pieces must be wrong somehow? Is there a 1" slip to a 2" glued adapter that I need? She couldn't find one at the store, but that doesn't mean they don't make one....

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Old 07-29-2010, 10:40 AM   #59
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Oops.... it DOES fit, someone at the store must have turned the nylon ring upside down.... *blush*
Wouldn't do it's job.... so.... is this the way to go from tub kit drain to 2"?

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Old 07-29-2010, 11:24 AM   #60
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re: the tub drain:

Do not use that 2 " adapter you have in the top of the 2" trap. Instead bush (2" to 1-1/2" bushing)the trap down to 1-1/2", short piece of pipe, then 1-1/2" trap adapter.

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