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Old 07-28-2010, 07:19 AM   #31
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One more quick question before I continue. I have 1" smooth pvc sch40 couplers, is there a DWV coupler required, or are these ok?

Thanks!

DM

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Old 07-28-2010, 07:35 AM   #32
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YAY! It finally let me upload.

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Old 07-28-2010, 07:38 AM   #33
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DM,

Not sure about the couplings, maybe a real plumber will chime in. There are DWX couplers, the most obvious difference is the depth of the glue joint is only 1/2" vs the Shcd 40 where the joint is 1" deep. An inspector would certainly see them easily and might make him dig a little harder. Personally since DWV couplings on cost 50 cents each, I would use them.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:43 AM   #34
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Cool, I have the smooth ones in a bag to go back to the store for swapping out.

Thanks!

DM
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:43 AM   #35
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DM,

Hate to say it but in you last pix, I think you have created a S trap. You need more length on the trap arm. I believe it is twice the dimension of the pipe size minimum. 3 " in your case. If you use a regular sanitary tee instead of that long sweep, I think you will meet the requirement.
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:18 AM   #36
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To add to this topic a little bit, when plumbing the drain for a shower stall with no future access from underneath, should it be done in all glued fittings? Or should any pieces have those threaded fittings (not sure of the name)?

I've seen some pictures here and many times not all the fittings are glued, one or two of them have that threaded piece so it could be removed. I'm just wondering the best course of action?
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:22 AM   #37
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No reason to "hate to say it"! I'm truly grateful for all the input I'm getting to have this laid out correctly for the 'pre-rough-in' inspection. Po)
I added the longer trap arm, and will get the shorter sanitary tees and other swapped out parts today.
This pic should be pretty close?

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Old 07-28-2010, 08:24 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proby View Post
To add to this topic a little bit, when plumbing the drain for a shower stall with no future access from underneath, should it be done in all glued fittings? Or should any pieces have those threaded fittings (not sure of the name)?

I've seen some pictures here and many times not all the fittings are glued, one or two of them have that threaded piece so it could be removed. I'm just wondering the best course of action?
Good question. I'll be working on the bathtub drain next.

DM
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:28 AM   #39
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Now, earlier, it was suggested I add a cleanout to the P-trap. Doesn't it unscrewing easily qualify it as a cleanout as well?

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Old 07-28-2010, 08:29 AM   #40
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Shower drain should be all glued fittings, no slip joints. BTW shower drains must be 2"
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:30 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Shower drain should be all glued fittings, no slip joints.
Is that what the threaded fittings are called, slip joints? Is it code to use all glued fittings or just good practice?

Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:31 AM   #42
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Since you are using a slip joint P trap there is no requirement for a clean out.
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:41 AM   #43
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Quote:
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Since you are using a slip joint P trap there is no requirement for a clean out.
Didn't think so.... Here are 2 old pieces that should be showing what I need to buy now. Do they make a DWV 1" top to 2" bottom sanitary tee for the kitchen sink? Or should I just go 2" for the vent as well? If so... what the heck do I do with the 40' of 1" pipe I already have??? LOL
The cleanout piece will be 2" for under the tub.

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Old 07-28-2010, 08:57 AM   #44
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@ Danger Mouse, I'm still learning the post features here so forgive me if the attachment doesn't work, but it shows the best way to plumb your kitchen sink. You'll find simular pictures on the site you posted.
I hate seeing all those extra fittings under your sink when I don't think they're needed. Maybe I'm not seeing your layout right.
And I have always been required to install clean outs on kit sinks. You can get a 2" C.O. tee and reduce the top of it or any other fitting with a 2x11/2 bushing
@ Proby, unions, slip joints, and compression fittings must be readily accessible.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:39 AM   #45
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YAY! PICTURES! lol OK, .... yes, this helps a lot.
I'll have to assume they make a DWV sanitary tee that has 1" on top and 2" on the bottom? Also..... any problem running the 2 45 elbows on the vent to have it tuck into the wall? (earlier post) .....with the correct DWV fittings, of course.

Thanks so much to all helping!

DM
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