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Old 09-09-2013, 10:59 AM   #16
Bill Kearney
 
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Moen McGyver plan


It's not disdain. It's injecting a bit of reality when reading the hodgepodge of materials being proposed, instead of proven methods and materials. Ones that aren't outrageously expensive or overly burdensome to obtain and install properly. I know you just want to 'get it done' but there's lots of trouble to be avoided by 'getting it done right'.

What it boils down to is, done right, the typical bat wall (tile, stone, whatever) laid to overlap a tub lip does a remarkably good job as a shower surround. The design is simple, durable and help avoids excessive maintenance hassles over time. Sometimes a given setup might present challenges in getting to that point, but they'll be trivial compared to the longer term problems.

Look, I ran into the same kind of problem with the walls in an 6x11' old bathroom of ours. The rough was about 1-1/4" wider than the tub flange. I was faced with either doing a bump-out of just the tub/shower alcove or one whole wall. I chose to do what, at the moment, seemed like the hard thing and furred out the whole wall. But it made my life easier in the long run by not adding a bunch of little pieces of tile to handle bumping out the corners of that alcove.

Now, you've got more gap to contend with than what I faced. But you have to ask just what that added foot is going to "do for you" versus was it's "going to do TO you". I'd venture the number one problem with showers is managing moisture. Making sure it goes where it needs to go, and stays away from where it would cause problems. Give the moisture direct and well-crafted means to get out of the shower and you save yourself a ton of hassles over time. This includes a proper ventilation scheme to get humidity out too.

So, yeah, you've got a can of worms you want to close back up, asap. I hear ya. I'm just suggesting that if you want to avoid having to reopen it again (and more) that a step back to reassess the situation would be a good idea to consider.

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Old 09-09-2013, 11:08 AM   #17
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Moen McGyver plan


Sigh, common sense prevails over the heady allure of on-the-fly innovation. Off to get the 2x4s. Any takers for a lovely Moen Eva T944BN trim set?
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:55 PM   #18
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Moen McGyver plan


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Originally Posted by anarolf View Post
forgot to mention this is a bathroom reno, downstairs is finished, as are the surrounding rooms & hallway, can't rip up to alter joist. Bathroom tile work was so shoddy couldn't take it anymore. Room dimensions are 7x11 so went with a 6-foot tub, no returns! I'm also nervous about tub load in the area, even though I have 2x12 joists at 16" over 15' span, I just don't want to mess with them unless absolutely necessary. Ghostmaker, this liquid waterproofer, does multi-purpose thinset adhere to it after curing or ceramic tile adhesive? Was just going to use some leftover Ice & Water shield on the treated Ply under the Durock, but this stuff sounds like good insurance.
Yes you can apply mastic directly to the stuff and tile. Used all the time here over concrete board for shower and tubs. Make sure it is water tight after it drys by running a hose and checking for leaks before you tile. But you would be served better if you just did it the right way with no deck.


Last edited by Ghostmaker; 09-09-2013 at 08:00 PM.
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