Major Shower issue

digitalplumber · 11-03-2012, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

Can you take a picture from further back---include the base too--

I see a fiberglass base---do I also see the concrete pad that it used to sit on?

When I get home, pic one is the bottom of the old shower pan. It has been removed.

Yes, that is a pour that they poured around the drain, then set the pan directly on top . That's what is strange, they must of had the drain in the wrong place when the slab was poured, why else wouldn't it look nice and finished?

Also at the 1 o'clock position, there is no concrete there. I can reach in and get a handful of clay. Just seems awfully thin there.

Hoping that the water isn't coming from under the slab!!!!!

digitalplumber · 11-03-2012, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber

Break out the concrete patch and make sure PVC riser extends high enough for a new fiberglass shower unit. Pour back concrete, leaving room for the pipe to flex some. Allow clearances for the shower drain assembly (notice the nut impression). If you're going with a mud base, the prep is similar but a different drain body

Should the trap ultimately be encased in cement?

**oh'mike** · 11-03-2012, 09:32 PM

Most fiberglass pans are set into a bed of mortar or gypcrete---if it was gypcrete --that stuff turns to mush when it gets wet-----that might be your clay like substance.

Also---I believe the installer did not achieve a good bond between the drain pipe and the drain set on the base----that looks like the cause of the failure

digitalplumber · 11-05-2012, 10:58 AM

Here is where I am today, as you can see the builders apparently missed center and did some moving. All in good shape after the minor break out, see previous picture. Turns out an offset and not the actual trap.

Now should I fill with a concrete mix, all, part or some? Fill with gravel first, then concrete? SHould I add an extension?

**TheEplumber** · 11-05-2012, 11:30 AM

You need to purchase your new pan and verify the drain drain location with what you have now - or find a pan that matches.
The top 45 is a "street 45" - meaning it doesn't have a hub on the top. So you can't extend it without modifying the fittings. The top 45 should fit inside the shower drain body.
If the rough in is ok, fill the hole to within 3-4" of the top with gravel then top that with concrete. I like to wrap the pipe with "sill seal" first before adding concrete. Allow room for the shower drain body- it recesses into the floor slightly- like your picture showed.
You don't need to let the concrete cure before setting the shower pan either. Set it according to manufacturers instructions. Most people set it into a mortar base as well.

digitalplumber · 11-05-2012, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber

You need to purchase your new pan and verify the drain drain location with what you have now - or find a pan that matches.
The top 45 is a "street 45" - meaning it doesn't have a hub on the top. So you can't extend it without modifying the fittings. The top 45 should fit inside the shower drain body.
If the rough in is ok, fill the hole to within 3-4" of the top with gravel then top that with concrete. I like to wrap the pipe with "sill seal" first before adding concrete. Allow room for the shower drain body- it recesses into the floor slightly- like your picture showed.
You don't need to let the concrete cure before setting the shower pan either. Set it according to manufacturers instructions. Most people set it into a mortar base as well.

Thanks I am considering using the Ditra shower system? But have some things to figure out since I don't want to redo the total shower.